I researched building a log home for years before I settled on the Skip style Butt & Pass method taught by the Log Home Builders Association. Almost every style I came across needed special hardware and spaces built in above door frames and windows. Special screw jacks may be required for other styles to lower the roof as the walls shrink. LHBA claimed (correctly) that none of this was needed for their method. This video attempts to explain why. This "secret" was the only thing I couldn't find an answer to before I took the class. This secret is also the reason why anyone (with enough grit) can build an LHBA log home, even as a "first time builder" like me.
My wife shows you how to make her homemade face mask. Here's the pattern: https://loghomejourney.files.wordpress.com/2020/03/bestfacemask.pdf
We learn to use a rotating laser level we borrowed from a neighbor. And then learn how to double check our lines with a water level. This is a Skip's Method Butt & Pass Log Home Builders Association (LHBA) home. Blog is here: https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/
I bought a 40 foot ladder from a guy so I can reach the ridgepole and the fascia board at the peak of the roof, which is about 33 feet up. My other ladder is only 24 feet, and the scaffolding is only 18 feet. I noticed while installing the roof that the 24 foot ladder could barely reach the eaves on the East side, so a taller ladder really is needed. I figure with this 40 footer I can finally reach everywhere on this house. But it is almost too heavy for one person to set up by themselves. And it was missing a rope to extend it. I went to the orange box and bought some hardware and some rope. I also was inspired by this website: https://makezine.com/projects/easy-lift-extension-ladder/.
And by the way- the 2 - 3 videos I watched on how to put a new rope on your ladder - are wrong. You actually should tie the rope to the bottom of the ladder instead of leaving it loose, IMO.
How we got and moved the logs for our home. I cut over 100 trees from mine and the neighbor's property. I also got some from the neighbors around the corner. These are all trees that would have eventually been bulldozed and burned if we had not harvested them, since they were considered "too crooked" for the mill.
Someone asked for an update- I'm still filling bee holes. But on the inside. yeah. The deadline to get the cabin ready for carpenter bee season is still early April. I want it caulked, filled, sanded, and stained. And I want 57 bee traps made out of mason jars. I've read and heard from other log cabin owners that if you can defeat the bees for one season, they're less likely to return the next year. Staining the logs dissuades them. Either way, I can't fill the holes after I stain, because that will look bad. That's your update.
A nearly 100 year old Structo ArtCraft Loom I received from a friend / fellow log home builder. He found it along with a couple spinning wheels and tons of knitting stuff in his mother's home after she passed away. I strung it up this weekend and tested it out- I have no idea what I'm doing, but it is fun! Maybe I can make something out of this cloth.
That's what I call this. Useful knot for dragging things, and then easy to release them. only holds while tension is applied.
How we installed lifting poles and the 1st layer of logs (https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/2017/06/10/houston-we-have-lift-off/ and https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/2017/06/22/1st-layer-done/):
- Dig 4 foot deep holes, with an angled trench leading down to the hole. The trench ends up being 3' deep near the hole. Don't dig the trench down to 4 feet because you need that at least a foot on all sides to keep the pole upright once it is vertical.
- prepare poles with cleats to hold the tie ropes in place. Each pole gets 2 tie / anchor / guy ropes.
- call your buddies from church to come help. About 8 guys should be able to do it. You need two of the guys to hold the anchor ropes so the pole doesn't go sideways.
- use a long aircraft cable and a tractor. have the guys start lifting the pole. Once the pole is about 6' off the ground, the tractor can take it the rest of the way. The two guys on anchor stay on anchor until the pole pops into the hole.
- fill in the hole around the pole with dirt, and tie the two anchor ropes to the base of the neighboring poles. These ropes relieve bending stress on the poles caused by lifting logs. My logs weigh between 3,000 - 6,000 lbs.
- hang pulleys from the lifting poles. Triple blocks are best for rope, which will give you a 7:1 advantage (a 5,600 lb log becomes a manageable 800 lb log when using a triple block).
- lay the log next to the piers. for the 1st layer of logs, make sure the part of the log facing down is facing up and drill holes that line up with the rebar. for 1/2" rebar, drill holes that are either 5/8" or even 3/4". bigger holes mean easier to slide onto rebar. For all other layers, use 1/2" holes for 1/2" rebar. Roll the log back over. Use straps and a tractor (or a car) to lift logs. Use a second car to stabilize the log over the rebar.
- lower log onto rebar. Bend excess 6" of rebar over log once in place, and cut off the extra beyond that. Done.
- next layer, offset drill holes by 2'. Only drill through 1st log, and pound rebar into lower log. Don't sharpen rebar to a point- it'll split the log.
Created 2 years, 6 months ago.
Category DIY & Gardening
Subscribe if I tickle your fancy. It's more than a mortgage-free log home. It's declaring freedom and independence.
Video types you may see:
How to videos:
-Building a Log Cabin with block and tackle
-working with logs
-using a sawmill
-Using LHBA Butt & Pass method
--Ukulele, Piano, song arrangements
--interesting natural things