This guy is crazier than me. I wish I could find the original video, but here you go.

This is a picture window frame (5'x6') made out of 4"x16" lumber I made on my mill. I don't know how much it weighs- probably 300 lbs. It will be bolted in place with 1/2"x10" lag screws.

I researched building a log home for years before I settled on the Skip style Butt & Pass method taught by the Log Home Builders Association. Almost every style I came across needed special hardware and spaces built in above door frames and windows. Special screw jacks may be required for other styles to lower the roof as the walls shrink. LHBA claimed (correctly) that none of this was needed for their method. This video attempts to explain why. This "secret" was the only thing I couldn't find an answer to before I took the class. This secret is also the reason why anyone (with enough grit) can build an LHBA log home, even as a "first time builder" like me.

Ladder jacks plus two ladders and a 2x12 board are useful for when you need to work at heights over long horizontal distance - such as when you are about to chink a log cabin. I made these for about $25 in steel and 1.5 hours of welding and cutting.

Stop motion video on how I made 4x16 wood door frames for my cabin. blog here:

I talk about how I'm making my door frames from a tree I cut down and milled. They are 4x16 pieces lag screwed together and then screwed into the logs of my cabin. I believe the finished frames weigh about 500 lbs.

by Stephen Kapp Perry. Soloist: my wife, Pianist: Mudflap

I talk about installing floor joists in my log cabin and the next steps.

1st row of chinking on the inside is complete.

Learning to chink on a row that probably won't be seen much.

Been trying to capture this for years. Usually happens at night. Got lucky today.

We learn to use a rotating laser level we borrowed from a neighbor. And then learn how to double check our lines with a water level. This is a Skip's Method Butt & Pass Log Home Builders Association (LHBA) home. Blog is here:

We learn to use a rotating laser level we borrowed from a neighbor. And then learn how to double check our lines with a water level. This is a Skip's Method Butt & Pass Log Home Builders Association (LHBA) home. Blog is here:

I bought a 40 foot ladder from a guy so I can reach the ridgepole and the fascia board at the peak of the roof, which is about 33 feet up. My other ladder is only 24 feet, and the scaffolding is only 18 feet. I noticed while installing the roof that the 24 foot ladder could barely reach the eaves on the East side, so a taller ladder really is needed. I figure with this 40 footer I can finally reach everywhere on this house. But it is almost too heavy for one person to set up by themselves. And it was missing a rope to extend it. I went to the orange box and bought some hardware and some rope. I also was inspired by this website:

And by the way- the 2 - 3 videos I watched on how to put a new rope on your ladder - are wrong. You actually should tie the rope to the bottom of the ladder instead of leaving it loose, IMO.

How we got and moved the logs for our home. I cut over 100 trees from mine and the neighbor's property. I also got some from the neighbors around the corner. These are all trees that would have eventually been bulldozed and burned if we had not harvested them, since they were considered "too crooked" for the mill.

Someone asked for an update- I'm still filling bee holes. But on the inside. yeah. The deadline to get the cabin ready for carpenter bee season is still early April. I want it caulked, filled, sanded, and stained. And I want 57 bee traps made out of mason jars. I've read and heard from other log cabin owners that if you can defeat the bees for one season, they're less likely to return the next year. Staining the logs dissuades them. Either way, I can't fill the holes after I stain, because that will look bad. That's your update.

January 2020 update: I discuss: filling in carpenter bee holes, preparing to stain, fixed the truck, will add a porch sooner, rather than later.

A nearly 100 year old Structo ArtCraft Loom I received from a friend / fellow log home builder. He found it along with a couple spinning wheels and tons of knitting stuff in his mother's home after she passed away. I strung it up this weekend and tested it out- I have no idea what I'm doing, but it is fun! Maybe I can make something out of this cloth.

That's what I call this. Useful knot for dragging things, and then easy to release them. only holds while tension is applied.

This is an adjustable tensioning knot. Best used for keeping tent lines tight. I used it to keep my safety rope tight while working at heights.

bowline or rescue knot makes a loop that will not cinch down. Useful for lifting people and tools. Can be tied with one hand.

The figure 8 knot makes a bigger ball than an overhand knot, and is easier to untie. Use it as a stop in a rope, or to take up space. blog:

How to tie a prusik knot. I used this knot to hold the logs mid-air so I could adjust the position of the tractor. Used with a triple-block pulley system, a piece of 1/2" braided rope can hold a 6,000 lb log in place so you can re-adjust the tractor.

How we installed lifting poles and the 1st layer of logs ( and

- Dig 4 foot deep holes, with an angled trench leading down to the hole. The trench ends up being 3' deep near the hole. Don't dig the trench down to 4 feet because you need that at least a foot on all sides to keep the pole upright once it is vertical.

- prepare poles with cleats to hold the tie ropes in place. Each pole gets 2 tie / anchor / guy ropes.

- call your buddies from church to come help. About 8 guys should be able to do it. You need two of the guys to hold the anchor ropes so the pole doesn't go sideways.

- use a long aircraft cable and a tractor. have the guys start lifting the pole. Once the pole is about 6' off the ground, the tractor can take it the rest of the way. The two guys on anchor stay on anchor until the pole pops into the hole.

- fill in the hole around the pole with dirt, and tie the two anchor ropes to the base of the neighboring poles. These ropes relieve bending stress on the poles caused by lifting logs. My logs weigh between 3,000 - 6,000 lbs.

- hang pulleys from the lifting poles. Triple blocks are best for rope, which will give you a 7:1 advantage (a 5,600 lb log becomes a manageable 800 lb log when using a triple block).

- lay the log next to the piers. for the 1st layer of logs, make sure the part of the log facing down is facing up and drill holes that line up with the rebar. for 1/2" rebar, drill holes that are either 5/8" or even 3/4". bigger holes mean easier to slide onto rebar. For all other layers, use 1/2" holes for 1/2" rebar. Roll the log back over. Use straps and a tractor (or a car) to lift logs. Use a second car to stabilize the log over the rebar.

- lower log onto rebar. Bend excess 6" of rebar over log once in place, and cut off the extra beyond that. Done.

- next layer, offset drill holes by 2'. Only drill through 1st log, and pound rebar into lower log. Don't sharpen rebar to a point- it'll split the log.



Created 2 years, 6 months ago.

64 videos

Category DIY & Gardening

Subscribe if I tickle your fancy. It's more than a mortgage-free log home. It's declaring freedom and independence.

Video types you may see:
How to videos:
-Building a Log Cabin with block and tackle
-working with logs
-using a sawmill
-Using LHBA Butt & Pass method
-felling trees
-peeling logs

Other videos:
--Ukulele, Piano, song arrangements
-knitting videos

-Miscellaneous videos
--interesting natural things