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50332 LE Limited Edition (Vintage Rimless).
Requires Presto 85608 Vent Pipe.
Demonstrated on Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner.
These regulators are not available anywhere, despite photos and illustrations used by many suppliers showing this 50332 LE version.
When ordered, they send and supply the 50332 (27-547) wide rim version. There are no formal part numbers or descriptions to show the difference.
The most striking functional difference for this regulator style, is the narrow rim's reduced weight which allows an actual 5 PSI regulation point for the body only. The two included weight rings are heavier, and are closer to 5 PSI than the (27-547) version. These give more accurate 10-15 regulation points.
More info and downloadable stuff at:
http://bushmantekbits.ca/50332LE/50332LE.htm
Not affiliated with Presto in any way.
Used with a Presto 50332 3 part regulator.
Washers fit both 50332 (27-547) Wide Rim and
50332 LE Limited Edition (Vintage Rimless).
Demonstrated on Presto 23 qt series Pressure Canner using Presto 85608 Vent pipe.
Washers allow more exact regulation points than a 3 point system, within 1/2 PSI.
Constant adjustment of stove temperature to control Pressure Canner PSI is not necessary.
Allows a method of testing or verifying the accuracy of your pressure gauges,
without needing to “bring them in” for mandatory yearly testing.
304 Stainless Steel (18/8) Laser cut to calculated dimensions.
Not available anywhere, I built this system for my own use.
The washers are made and packaged in Alberta Canada.
After multiple pressure canning batches, I can't imagine how I managed without it !!
For more info, DIY and free downloads:
http://bushmantekbits.ca/BM9038-Kit/BM9038-Kit.htm
Not affiliated with Presto in any way.
FoodSaver® Wide Mouth Jar Sealers work reliably on almost all my canning jars.
However, I have one wide mouth jar type which will not form a vacuum. (I bought jars at garage sales... )
These problem jars have glass 1" rings which are a bit smaller in OD than those which do seal.
A #151 Silicon O-Ring makes up the difference in OD, making these jars useful for vacuum sealing.
more info at:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca/BM9043%20FS%20Filter/BM9043%20FS%20Filter.htm
External DIY Filter protects entire vacuum pump and system from ingesting dusts and liquids.
Plugs into existing port, using 1/2 FoodSaver accessory hose.
With an unmodified unit, Filter works only when using accessory hose port, for example with Jar Sealers.
Added vacuum gauge monitors process.
Not affiliated with FoodSaver.
more info at:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca/BM9043%20FS%20Filter/BM9043%20FS%20Filter.htm
External DIY Filter protects FoodSaver vacuum pump from ingesting dusts and liquids.
Uses vacuum pump, but bypasses internal hose, chamber and heater systems.
Does not use Drip Tray and will not activate Seal Heater or shut itself off.
Added vacuum gauge monitors process.
Not affiliated with Foodsaver.
www.bushmantekbits.ca
External DIY Filter protects FoodSaver vacuum pump from ingesting dusts and liquids.
Added vacuum gauge monitors process.
Not affiliated with Foodsaver.
www.bushmantekbits.ca
Presto 50332 LE (Limited Edition) 3 part Adjustable Regulator 10-11-12 PSI Demo.
BT9038 PSI washers for regulation in 1/2 to 1 PSI increments. Requires Presto 85608 Vent Pipe.
Demonstrated on Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner.
As of this writing, these regulators are not available anywhere, despite photos and illustrations used by some suppliers showing this 50332 LE version.
When ordered, they send and supply the 50332 (27-547) wide rim version.
There are no formal part numbers or descriptions to show the difference, that I could find.
The LE and "Limited Edition" designations are unofficial, used here only for reference.
The most striking functional difference for this regulator style, is the narrow rim's reduced weight which allows an actual 5 PSI regulation point for the body only. The two included weight rings are heavier, and are closer to 5 PSI than the (27-547) version. These give more accurate 10-15 regulation points.
More info and downloadable stuff:
http://bushmantekbits.ca/50332LE/50332LE.htm
Not affiliated with Presto in any way.
BT9038 PSI washers for regulation in 1 1/2 PSI increments.
Presto Pressure Canner 3 part adjustable regulator.
Requires Presto 85608 Vent Pipe.
Demonstrated on Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner.
These regulators are not available anywhere, despite photos and illustrations used by many suppliers showing this 50332 LE version.
When ordered, they send and supply the 50332 (27-547) wide rim version. There are no formal part numbers or descriptions to show the difference.
The most striking functional difference for this regulator style, is the narrow rim's reduced weight which allows an actual 5 PSI regulation point for the body only. The two included weight rings are heavier, and are closer to 5 PSI than the (27-547) version. These give more accurate 10-15 regulation points.
More info and downloadable stuff at:
http://bushmantekbits.ca/50332LE/50332LE.htm
Not affiliated with Presto in any way.
Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner Demonstration with Presto 50332 (27-547) Wide Rim 3 piece pressure regulator.
Body and one washer or configured for "10 PSI".
The actual regulation point is different than 10 PSI, thus this video.
Vent Pipe ID
I replaced the original 85608 Vent Pipe in my older model Presto 0178004 canner, when i found the original had a slightly larger hole ID (approx .13" ID) compared to a newly purchased 85608
(approx .125" ID).
(I have a newer model Presto 0178107 as backup, which tipped me off to the Vent Pipe ID difference.)
Although both new and old Vent Pipes have the same number, the older one (.13" ID) gave slightly lower pressure regulation points than the new one (.125" ID).
I have no idea what caused the different Vent Pipe ID's in my canners, but other YouTube videos on this topic might show this difference as well ?
Either way, All my canners (and videos) now use the newer 85608 .125" ID Vent Pipe.
(Disclaimer: All measurements are "best fit" according to my tools, which don't all exactly agree, & for whatever these are worth. If anyone has better or additional info on any of this, please share !!)
Not affiliated with Presto in any way.
Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner Demonstration with
Presto 50332 (27-547) Wide Rim 3 piece pressure regulator.
Body and two washers or configured for "15 PSI".
The actual regulation point is different than 15 PSI, thus this video.
Vent Pipe ID
I replaced the original 85608 Vent Pipe in my older model Presto 0178004 canner, when i found the original had a slightly larger hole ID (approx .13" ID) compared to a newly purchased 85608
(approx .125" ID).
(I have a newer model Presto 0178107 as backup, which tipped me off to the Vent Pipe ID difference.)
Although both new and old Vent Pipes have the same number, the older one (.13" ID) gave slightly lower pressure regulation points than the new one (.125" ID).
I have no idea what caused the different Vent Pipe ID's in my canners, but other YouTube videos on this topic might show this difference as well ?
All my canners (and videos) now use the newer 85608 .125" ID Vent Pipe.
(Disclaimer: All measurements are "best fit" according to my tools, which don't all exactly agree, & for whatever these are worth. If anyone has better or additional info on any of this, please share !!)
Not affiliated with Presto in any way.
Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner Demonstration with
Presto 50332 (27-547) Wide Rim 3 piece pressure regulator.
Body only or configured for "5 PSI".
The actual regulation point is different than 5 PSI, thus this video.
Vent Pipe ID
I replaced the original 85608 Vent Pipe in my older model Presto 0178004 canner, when i found the original had a slightly larger hole ID (approx .13" ID) compared to a newly purchased 85608
(approx .125" ID).
(I have a newer model Presto 0178107 as backup, which tipped me off to the Vent Pipe ID difference.)
Although both new and old Vent Pipes have the same number, the older one (.13" ID) gave slightly lower pressure regulation points than the new one (.125" ID).
I have no idea what caused the different Vent Pipe ID's in my canners, but other YouTube videos on this topic might show this difference as well ?
All my canners (and videos) use the newer 85608 .125" ID Vent Pipe.
(Disclaimer: All measurements are "best fit" according to my tools, which don't all exactly agree, & for whatever these are worth. If anyone has better or additional info on any of this, please share !!)
Not affiliated with Presto in any way.
Bushman TekBits
BM9033-VTEF02
A rough and quick comparison to see how English and Texas flints compare for giving sparks. Not particularly scientific, but does give a rough idea.
They seem about equal, but maybe the English Flint sparks a bit more and lasts a bit longer before getting dull. The English flint was used somewhat before the comparison started.
More tests on more rocks & strikers would be required, however.
BM9026-TF Texas Flint / Chert
BM9026-EF English Flint
BM9026-10 1095 Striker Single Loop
BM9026-20 1095 Striker Oval
Bushman Tekbits
BM9026-VDLR
In the beginning, I could not get my laser cut 1095 strikers to harden enough to make sparks, using a DIY digitally controlled electric heat treat oven. Tried lots of different heating and quenching formulas. Still no sparks.
Then I found out about removing the decarb layer using files... my strikers began sparking !!
When cutting through softer steel, the sound is "dull' and the file "grabs". Upon reaching the harder layer, the sound brightens, gets "sharper" and the file action slides or glides like on skates or ball bearings.
The truly definitive test, however, is still whether it sparks and how much.
This is the video I wish I had when I first started.
The belt sander seems to add to the decarb layer (instead of removing it) if the piece is heated too much?
Cool your piece between each pass.
Especially with a worn belt?? More tests !!
There is hardly anything specific on UTube that i found on this topic wrt 1095 strikers using electric heat treat ovens. There is LOTS on using file steel etc. using gas or coal type forges. Lots of stuff for knives, complete with heat treat temperatures & quench stuff etc.
It strikes me that with knives there is no quick accurate definitive test for hardness unless using a very expensive hardness tester.
With strikers, you know they're hard enough if they give good sparks.
That leaves decarb layer removal and testing with flat and test files....
Bushman TekBIts
BM9030-OHVA03
Stuff I carry in my Optimus Hiker+ stove.
Included is two Altoids tins, one for fire making & the other for maintenance. In normal use, neither should ever need to be opened.
In a SHTF or emergency situation, their contents are very useful.
More info on other stuff at:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca
Bushman TekBIts
BM9030-LSTS03
TShank Spacer 0.033" thk
1st cut using Bosch T123X (metal) and BM9030-LSTS03 TShank spacer
2nd cut with Leatherman supplied TShank (wood) Saw Blade
TShank Spacer allows the use of a Bosch T123X metal saw blade.
Brings combined thickness to .070", eliminating the side play usually associated with using non Leatherman Saw Blades.
The Bosch T123X is specified at .040" thick, but measures at .037".
More info and other stuff at:
http:/www.bushmantekbits.ca
Bushman TekBits
BM9031-VSW01
Steel Wools vs BIC Flick (empty BIC lighter)
Comparison between steel wool types, to see if any are better than others etc.
An empty BIC lighter is used for sparking, as then spark strength and type is easily and cheaply duplicated.
The BIC used in this test is an older one, with it's original flint and unaltered flint spring.
An elastic band held down the striker lever until empty. (outdoors)
Three types of Steel Wool available locally were used:
Bull Dog 0000 Made in Canada Homehardware.ca
Bull Dog Superfine Made in Canada Homehardware.ca
WorkPro 0000 Made in China Canadiantire.ca
Generally speaking, the fluffier the wool is, the better.
Needs lots of air for the steel strands to fully ignite and propagate.
Compact wool smothers the flames, not enough air.
Alternately, blowing air into the ignited wool helps.
I've got a couple of other types perhaps for the future as Part 2.
More info on other stuff at:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca
Bushman TekBIts
BM9030-LSBA02
An off the shelf magnetic bit holder ground to fit the Leatherman Surge bit holder.
Standard 1/4" hex bits can then be attached to the Surge.
WIHA System 4 bit adaptor and bits demonstrated, which can be selected for use with eyeglass screws and much more.
There are few Internet references on this topic, I figured adding part numbers, methods and photos to the mix would be helpful.
More info, WIHA part list etc. at:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca
Bushman TekBits
BM9030-LSTS03
Laser cut from 304 Stainless, ground for about 0.033" thick.
Fits Bosch T123X TShank Saw Blades
and similar at about 0.037" thick..
As noted on UTube Videos, the Bosch TShank series saw blades fit the Leatherman Surge Saw Blade Adaptor but they are too loose.
A TShank spacer can be used to bring them up to the required .070" thickness.
The Bosch T123X is specified at .040" thickness but samples measure at about 0.037". The BM9030-LSTS03 has been ground for about 0 .033" thickness, which totals .070".
Check other blade types, to see whether they are about .037" thickness before use. Other thickness variations may be available by request.
For more information and stuff:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca
My EDC Altoids Fire Kit.
Includes Ferro rod on cotton baton with Vaseline, misc picky and pack tools and Waxed Jute Tinder Tube BM9023-2.
This waxed Jute tinder tube method is among the most versatile convenient ways I have found to produce flame from Ferro rods. Flame size can be adjusted, put out easily or moved around.
Copper tube is cut to fit a standard sized Altoids tin.
Remove the jute to use as a blow tube. Keep your distance from the flame, no need to burn yourself trying to blow on your fire. Copper tube ends are ground and sanded to remove sharpest edges.
Copper is anti-microbial, killing even antibiotic resistant bacteria on dry contact. Many types within minutes. Equally important is that copper does not promote anti-biotic resistance.
Other historical uses for copper include disinfecting drinking water, disinfecting wounds etc.
Far superior to Stainless or Glass in these applications.
The dark "tarnish" or patina on copper enhances the anti-microbial effect. Copper & Brass are used in hospitals and public places etc. for "touch surfaces".
Search "anti-microbial copper" for the latest authoritative info.
Flint and Steel components shown but not used.
BUSHMAN TEKBITS
BM9031-VSW04
Comparison between Steel wool, fluffed Cotton balls and Jute for fire starting ignition. Empty BIC Flicks, Ferro rod, Electrical sparks and grinder sparks.
Visually demonstrates how 0000 Steel wool ignites even when cotton or jute will not.
Also demonstrates how much of a fire hazard fine steel wool could be if left lying around unattended. Steel wool should never be stored near electrical equipment or metal working tools. Should be stored in a metal container with a decent metal lid. Etc.
Also, a totally unexpected test result at the end of video wrt ferro rods and grinder. Last test done as an afterthought, almost.
This video is a "must see" for beginner and seasoned fire making preppers and survivalists alike.
Also a "must see" for anyone using and storing steel wool in their shops, homes or vehicles.
for more info and gadgets:
http://www.BushmanTekBits.ca
Bushman TekBIts
BM9026-BDCK
Frictionless Bow Drill Spindle retainer Cup installed on F608Z Ball Bearing in Flint and Steel Striker "BTB Ball Bearing Mount".
Also shown in Stand alone" and Fidget Spinner configurations.
Will fit Flangeless 608Z bearings when installed with
BTB BM9026-BBRK Flangeless ball bearing retainer kit.
Upgrade unused Fidget Spinners into Frictionless Bow Drill Ball Bearing Blocks !!! Also for Finger Spinners..... and other 608 bearing gadgets.
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca
Bushman TekBits
BM9026-FBRK
Flanged Ball Bearing Retainer Kit installed into an Oval Striker,
equipped with a "BTB Ball Bearing Mount"
Converts striker into a frictionless Bow Drill Ball Bearing Block.
No more burned hands or wasted energy.
Kit will fit several different BTB Striker models.
Bushman TekBIts
BM9026-19
1095 Carbon Steel, Laser cut, Digital Electric oven Heat treated
Texas Chert / Flint
Small enough for EDC on a key chain or in an Altoids tin.
Bushman TekBits
BM9026-10
1095 Carbon Steel, Laser cut, Digital Electric oven Heat treated
Texas Chert / Flint
Striker is equipped with a "BTB Ball Bearing Mount"
Can be configured as a Frictionless Bow Drill Spindle Ball Bearing Block
Bushman TekBIts
BM9026-11
1095 Carbon Steel, Laser cut, Digital Electric oven Heat treated
Texas Chert / Flint
Striker is equipped with dual "BTB Ball Bearing Mounts"
Can be configured as a Bow Drill Spindle Ball Bearing Block
Prepper, Survivalist and handy tekkie bits, hard or impossible to find otherwise.
Many of our own design and manufacture.