Bushman TekBits

BT9038 PSI washers for regulation in 1 1/2 PSI increments.
Presto Pressure Canner 3 part adjustable regulator.
Requires Presto 85608 Vent Pipe.
Demonstrated on Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner.

These regulators are not available anywhere, despite photos and illustrations used by many suppliers showing this 50332 LE version.
When ordered, they send and supply the 50332 (27-547) wide rim version. There are no formal part numbers or descriptions to show the difference.

The most striking functional difference for this regulator style, is the narrow rim's reduced weight which allows an actual 5 PSI regulation point for the body only. The two included weight rings are heavier, and are closer to 5 PSI than the (27-547) version. These give more accurate 10-15 regulation points.

More info and downloadable stuff:
http://bushmantekbits.ca/50332LE/50332LE.htm

Presto Pressure Canner 3 part adjustable regulator.
Requires Presto 85608 Vent Pipe.
Demonstrated on Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner.

These regulators are not available anywhere, despite photos and illustrations used by many suppliers showing this 50332 LE version.
When ordered, they send and supply the 50332 (27-547) wide rim version. There are no formal part numbers or descriptions to show the difference.

The most striking functional difference for this regulator style, is the narrow rim's reduced weight which allows an actual 5 PSI regulation point for the body only. The two included weight rings are heavier, and are closer to 5 PSI than the (27-547) version. These give more accurate 10-15 regulation points.

More info and downloadable stuff at:
http://bushmantekbits.ca/50332LE/50332LE.htm

BT9038 PSI washers for regulation in 1 1/2 PSI increments.
Presto Pressure Canner 3 part adjustable regulator.
Requires Presto 85608 Vent Pipe.
Demonstrated on Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner.

These regulators are not available anywhere, despite photos and illustrations used by many suppliers showing this 50332 LE version.
When ordered, they send and supply the 50332 (27-547) wide rim version. There are no formal part numbers or descriptions to show the difference.

The most striking functional difference for this regulator style, is the narrow rim's reduced weight which allows an actual 5 PSI regulation point for the body only. The two included weight rings are heavier, and are closer to 5 PSI than the (27-547) version. These give more accurate 10-15 regulation points.

More info and downloadable stuff at:
http://bushmantekbits.ca/50332LE/50332LE.htm

Bushman TekBits BT9038-Kit

Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner using
Presto 50332 (27-547) Wide Rim 3 piece pressure regulator.
Bushman Tekbits BT9038-Set washers enable setting the regulation point in 1-1/2 PSI increments.
Not all combinations are shown, but enough to see how it works.

304 Stainless Steel (18/8) Laser cut to calculated dimensions.
Designed, manufactured, hand finished and packaged in Alberta Canada.
I couldn't buy them, so I built these for my own use.

Vent Pipe ID
I replaced the original 85608 Vent Pipe in my older model Presto 0178004 canner, when i found the original had a slightly larger hole ID (approx .13" ID) compared to a newly purchased 85608 (approx .125" ID).
(I have a newer model Presto 0178107 as backup, which tipped me off to the Vent Pipe ID difference.)
Although both new and old Vent Pipes have the same number, the older one (.13" ID) gave slightly lower pressure regulation points than the new one (.125" ID).
I have no idea what caused the different Vent Pipe ID's in my canners, but other YouTube videos on this topic might show this difference as well ?

Either way, All my canners (and videos) now use the newer 85608 .125" ID Vent Pipe.

http://bushmantekbits.ca/BM9038-Kit/BM9038-Kit.htm

(Disclaimer: All measurements are "best fit" according to my tools, which don't all exactly agree, & for whatever these are worth. If anyone has better or additional info on any of this, please share !!)
Not affiliated with Presto in any way.

Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner Demonstration with Presto 50332 (27-547) Wide Rim 3 piece pressure regulator.
Body and one washer or configured for "10 PSI".
The actual regulation point is different than 10 PSI, thus this video.

Vent Pipe ID
I replaced the original 85608 Vent Pipe in my older model Presto 0178004 canner, when i found the original had a slightly larger hole ID (approx .13" ID) compared to a newly purchased 85608
(approx .125" ID).
(I have a newer model Presto 0178107 as backup, which tipped me off to the Vent Pipe ID difference.)
Although both new and old Vent Pipes have the same number, the older one (.13" ID) gave slightly lower pressure regulation points than the new one (.125" ID).
I have no idea what caused the different Vent Pipe ID's in my canners, but other YouTube videos on this topic might show this difference as well ?

Either way, All my canners (and videos) now use the newer 85608 .125" ID Vent Pipe.

(Disclaimer: All measurements are "best fit" according to my tools, which don't all exactly agree, & for whatever these are worth. If anyone has better or additional info on any of this, please share !!)

Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner Demonstration with
Presto 50332 (27-547) Wide Rim 3 piece pressure regulator.
Body and two washers or configured for "15 PSI".
The actual regulation point is different than 15 PSI, thus this video.

Vent Pipe ID
I replaced the original 85608 Vent Pipe in my older model Presto 0178004 canner, when i found the original had a slightly larger hole ID (approx .13" ID) compared to a newly purchased 85608
(approx .125" ID).
(I have a newer model Presto 0178107 as backup, which tipped me off to the Vent Pipe ID difference.)
Although both new and old Vent Pipes have the same number, the older one (.13" ID) gave slightly lower pressure regulation points than the new one (.125" ID).
I have no idea what caused the different Vent Pipe ID's in my canners, but other YouTube videos on this topic might show this difference as well ?

Either way, All my canners (and videos) now use the newer 85608 .125" ID Vent Pipe.

(Disclaimer: All measurements are "best fit" according to my tools, which don't all exactly agree, & for whatever these are worth. If anyone has better or additional info on any of this, please share !!)

Presto 0178004 23 qt Pressure Canner Demonstration with
Presto 50332 (27-547) Wide Rim 3 piece pressure regulator.
Body only or configured for "5 PSI".
The actual regulation point is different than 5 PSI, thus this video.

Vent Pipe ID
I replaced the original 85608 Vent Pipe in my older model Presto 0178004 canner, when i found the original had a slightly larger hole ID (approx .13" ID) compared to a newly purchased 85608
(approx .125" ID).
(I have a newer model Presto 0178107 as backup, which tipped me off to the Vent Pipe ID difference.)
Although both new and old Vent Pipes have the same number, the older one (.13" ID) gave slightly lower pressure regulation points than the new one (.125" ID).
I have no idea what caused the different Vent Pipe ID's in my canners, but other YouTube videos on this topic might show this difference as well ?

Either way, All my canners (and videos) now use the newer 85608 .125" ID Vent Pipe.

(Disclaimer: All measurements are "best fit" according to my tools, which don't all exactly agree, & for whatever these are worth. If anyone has better or additional info on any of this, please share !!)

Bushman TekBits
BM9033-VTEF02

A rough and quick comparison to see how English and Texas flints compare for giving sparks. Not particularly scientific, but does give a rough idea.
They seem about equal, but maybe the English Flint sparks a bit more and lasts a bit longer before getting dull. The English flint was used somewhat before the comparison started.

More tests on more rocks & strikers would be required, however.

BM9026-TF Texas Flint / Chert
BM9026-EF English Flint
BM9026-10 1095 Striker Single Loop
BM9026-20 1095 Striker Oval

http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman Tekbits
BM9026-VDLR

In the beginning, I could not get my laser cut 1095 strikers to harden enough to make sparks, using a DIY digitally controlled electric heat treat oven. Tried lots of different heating and quenching formulas. Still no sparks.

Then I found out about removing the decarb layer using files... my strikers began sparking !!

When cutting through softer steel, the sound is "dull' and the file "grabs". Upon reaching the harder layer, the sound brightens, gets "sharper" and the file action slides or glides like on skates or ball bearings.
The truly definitive test, however, is still whether it sparks and how much.

This is the video I wish I had when I first started.

The belt sander seems to add to the decarb layer (instead of removing it) if the piece is heated too much?
Cool your piece between each pass.
Especially with a worn belt?? More tests !!

There is hardly anything specific on UTube that i found on this topic wrt 1095 strikers using electric heat treat ovens. There is LOTS on using file steel etc. using gas or coal type forges. Lots of stuff for knives, complete with heat treat temperatures & quench stuff etc.
It strikes me that with knives there is no quick accurate definitive test for hardness unless using a very expensive hardness tester.
With strikers, you know they're hard enough if they give good sparks.

That leaves decarb layer removal and testing with flat and test files....

http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBIts
BM9030-OHVA03

Stuff I carry in my Optimus Hiker+ stove.
Included is two Altoids tins, one for fire making & the other for maintenance. In normal use, neither should ever need to be opened.
In a SHTF or emergency situation, their contents are very useful.

More info on other stuff at:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBIts
BM9030-LSTS03
TShank Spacer 0.033" thk

1st cut using Bosch T123X (metal) and BM9030-LSTS03 TShank spacer
2nd cut with Leatherman supplied TShank (wood) Saw Blade

TShank Spacer allows the use of a Bosch T123X metal saw blade.
Brings combined thickness to .070", eliminating the side play usually associated with using non Leatherman Saw Blades.
The Bosch T123X is specified at .040" thick, but measures at .037".

More info and other stuff at:
http:/www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBits
BM9031-VSW01
Steel Wools vs BIC Flick (empty BIC lighter)

Comparison between steel wool types, to see if any are better than others etc.
An empty BIC lighter is used for sparking, as then spark strength and type is easily and cheaply duplicated.
The BIC used in this test is an older one, with it's original flint and unaltered flint spring.
An elastic band held down the striker lever until empty. (outdoors)

Three types of Steel Wool available locally were used:
Bull Dog 0000 Made in Canada Homehardware.ca
Bull Dog Superfine Made in Canada Homehardware.ca
WorkPro 0000 Made in China Canadiantire.ca

Generally speaking, the fluffier the wool is, the better.
Needs lots of air for the steel strands to fully ignite and propagate.
Compact wool smothers the flames, not enough air.
Alternately, blowing air into the ignited wool helps.

I've got a couple of other types perhaps for the future as Part 2.

More info on other stuff at:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBIts
BM9030-LSBA02

An off the shelf magnetic bit holder ground to fit the Leatherman Surge bit holder.

Standard 1/4" hex bits can then be attached to the Surge.
WIHA System 4 bit adaptor and bits demonstrated, which can be selected for use with eyeglass screws and much more.

There are few Internet references on this topic, I figured adding part numbers, methods and photos to the mix would be helpful.

More info, WIHA part list etc. at:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBits
BM9030-LSTS03

Laser cut from 304 Stainless, ground for about 0.033" thick.
Fits Bosch T123X TShank Saw Blades
and similar at about 0.037" thick..

As noted on UTube Videos, the Bosch TShank series saw blades fit the Leatherman Surge Saw Blade Adaptor but they are too loose.
A TShank spacer can be used to bring them up to the required .070" thickness.
The Bosch T123X is specified at .040" thickness but samples measure at about 0.037". The BM9030-LSTS03 has been ground for about 0 .033" thickness, which totals .070".

Check other blade types, to see whether they are about .037" thickness before use. Other thickness variations may be available by request.

For more information and stuff:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

My EDC Altoids Fire Kit.
Includes Ferro rod on cotton baton with Vaseline, misc picky and pack tools and Waxed Jute Tinder Tube BM9023-2.

This waxed Jute tinder tube method is among the most versatile convenient ways I have found to produce flame from Ferro rods. Flame size can be adjusted, put out easily or moved around.
Copper tube is cut to fit a standard sized Altoids tin.

Remove the jute to use as a blow tube. Keep your distance from the flame, no need to burn yourself trying to blow on your fire. Copper tube ends are ground and sanded to remove sharpest edges.

Copper is anti-microbial, killing even antibiotic resistant bacteria on dry contact. Many types within minutes. Equally important is that copper does not promote anti-biotic resistance.
Other historical uses for copper include disinfecting drinking water, disinfecting wounds etc.
Far superior to Stainless or Glass in these applications.
The dark "tarnish" or patina on copper enhances the anti-microbial effect. Copper & Brass are used in hospitals and public places etc. for "touch surfaces".
Search "anti-microbial copper" for the latest authoritative info.

Flint and Steel components shown but not used.

http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

BUSHMAN TEKBITS
BM9031-VSW04

Comparison between Steel wool, fluffed Cotton balls and Jute for fire starting ignition. Empty BIC Flicks, Ferro rod, Electrical sparks and grinder sparks.

Visually demonstrates how 0000 Steel wool ignites even when cotton or jute will not.
Also demonstrates how much of a fire hazard fine steel wool could be if left lying around unattended. Steel wool should never be stored near electrical equipment or metal working tools. Should be stored in a metal container with a decent metal lid. Etc.

Also, a totally unexpected test result at the end of video wrt ferro rods and grinder. Last test done as an afterthought, almost.

This video is a "must see" for beginner and seasoned fire making preppers and survivalists alike.
Also a "must see" for anyone using and storing steel wool in their shops, homes or vehicles.

for more info and gadgets:
http://www.BushmanTekBits.ca

Bushman TekBIts
BM9026-BDCK

Frictionless Bow Drill Spindle retainer Cup installed on F608Z Ball Bearing in Flint and Steel Striker "BTB Ball Bearing Mount".
Also shown in Stand alone" and Fidget Spinner configurations.
Will fit Flangeless 608Z bearings when installed with
BTB BM9026-BBRK Flangeless ball bearing retainer kit.
Upgrade unused Fidget Spinners into Frictionless Bow Drill Ball Bearing Blocks !!! Also for Finger Spinners..... and other 608 bearing gadgets.
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBits
BM9026-FBRK

Flanged Ball Bearing Retainer Kit installed into an Oval Striker,
equipped with a "BTB Ball Bearing Mount"
Converts striker into a frictionless Bow Drill Ball Bearing Block.
No more burned hands or wasted energy.
Kit will fit several different BTB Striker models.

http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBIts
BM9026-19

1095 Carbon Steel, Laser cut, Digital Electric oven Heat treated
Texas Chert / Flint
Small enough for EDC on a key chain or in an Altoids tin.

http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBits
BM9026-10

1095 Carbon Steel, Laser cut, Digital Electric oven Heat treated
Texas Chert / Flint
Striker is equipped with a "BTB Ball Bearing Mount"
Can be configured as a Frictionless Bow Drill Spindle Ball Bearing Block

http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBIts
BM9026-11

1095 Carbon Steel, Laser cut, Digital Electric oven Heat treated
Texas Chert / Flint
Striker is equipped with dual "BTB Ball Bearing Mounts"
Can be configured as a Bow Drill Spindle Ball Bearing Block

http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBits
BM9026-20

1095 Carbon Steel, Laser cut, Digital Electric oven Heat treated
Texas Chert / Flint
Striker is equipped with a "BTB Ball Bearing Mount"
Can be configured as a Bow Drill Spindle Ball Bearing Block

http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBIts
BM9030-02V03

Optimus Hiker + fuels:
Automotive Gasolines
White gas or coleman fuel
Aviation fuel
Diesel fuel
Kerosene
Paint thinner
Almost anything except alcohol, methanol or heavy oils.

Leatherman Surge Bosch T123X saw blade
using saw blade TShank adaptor spacer (BM9030-LSTS03)
Ferro Rod (BM9022-1)
Waxed Jute Tinder Tube (BM9023-2)
Kerosene used as fuel and for priming.

Too cold for BIC lighters, they will spark but won't light.

The main question I had for this test, was to see if the Kerosene, Ferro Rod & Waxed Jute tube combination would still start the Optimus stove, at very cold temperatures. Priming and starting worked just as well as when warm, but the camera wouldn't always focus, probably because of the cold (I found this out only during film editing).
Note: The closeup scene of the burn nozzle being primed is from a different filming session, included here only for reference and info.

for more info:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBits
BM9030-02V01

Fill tanks with kerosene.
Fix / Tinker with fuel pump
Prepare Waxed Jute Tube & strike to flame with Leatherman Surge saw.
Pre-heat and start.

The Optimus Hiker plus can use any of the following fuels:
Kerosene
Diesel
Automotive Gasolines
Aviation fuel
White gas or Coleman fuel
Paint thinner
Almost anything except heavy oils, alcohol or methanol.

Simmers very well, heat is controllable and stable down to a very low heat. Very popular in Europe, spare parts and rebuild kits are readily available on EBay etc.
Second hand or used Optimus stoves command almost the same prices as when new. Sometimes higher, as with the Optimus 111T.
The 111T can burn alcohol, in addition to the other fuels listed above.

The Hiker plus is special, in that it has a circular wick in it's preheat fuel holder. Kerosene burns with a wick, so kerosene can be used as a primer fuel. Does not need alcohol or methanol for priming as required by other optimus models.

There are Internet stories that some people will mix fuels, using whatever is available as they find it.
Gasoline, paint thinner, diesel etc. all goes into the mix.
Do not use "Used" or "contaminated" fuels, they will plug up orifices etc. as they evaporate and burn..

Pure Kerosene is the safest fuel. At room temperature It needs a wick to burn, it's vapours are not explosive like alcohol or gasoline. Stores longer than gasoline and does not evaporate as quickly as alcohol. Does not need specialized containers like propane.

More info and gadgets at:
http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

Bushman TekBIts
BM9031-VSW06

Steel Wool (Bulldog 0000)
ignition using Striker (BM9026-11) and Texas Flint (BM9026-TF).
Leatherman Surge & Bosch T123X saw blade
using TShank adaptor spacer (BM9030-LSTS03)
Waxed Jute Copper Tinder Tube (BM9023-2)

This morning the temperature was unexpectedly -32C offering an opportunity for another video. It warmed up to about -31C by the time I got organized for filming. The Steel wool, Flint and Steel, Ferro rod etc. were all outdoors overnight, so got a good "cold soak" for the event.

-31C is too cold for BIC lighters, they will spark but won't light.

The purpose for this test was to see if Steel Wool would still ignite using Flint and Steel at lower ambient temperatures. Worked good !! Waxed Jute Tinder Tubes still seem to work good also.

Flint and Steel ignition seemed a bit "slower" than at higher temperatures, at times taking more strikes for ignition it seemed.
Or... are my flint rocks getting dull?
Waxed Jute flame size seemed down a bit also....

If it gets even colder, expect more videos !!

http://www.bushmantekbits.ca

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Created 1 year, 10 months ago.

26 videos

CategoryScience & Technology

Prepper, Survivalist and handy tekkie bits, hard or impossible to find otherwise.
Many of our own design and manufacture.