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This board was bought on line pre built. It works really well, and can read up over 2 gigs. Not a lot to say, the video explains a lot.

Yes that was a disaster averted because of my upgrades to the unit. None of the original components did anything since my TVI diode took the hit FIRST. So only one diode was damaged in the strike. A simple replacement and it is back protecting my electronics. So I wonder how high the voltage spike would have been WITHOUT my diodes in there? These diodes do, in fact, react faster and better than just MOV's. So a big win for the surge protector mod. It shorted the voltage spike to ground within just nanoseconds, and "popped" the panel breaker, that disconnected the power. MOV's do not react that fast.
I have other videos on this subject, if you would like more information.

This is how I reused the old bent "keepers" holding the steering cylinder on. If you put old ones back on, they will bend again more easily, if you do not do this fix. This is a way to keep them from bending again. I used .265" by 1" strap. I would say .250" will work just fine too. ALWAYS put your ground clamp directly on the work piece before welding. NEVER allow the current to travel through a movable cylinder, or such things, or through any wiring. You can blow a circuit or alternator, etc. I did have new keepers , but decided to try this fix with the old ones first. I will have the new ones if I ever need them. After two weeks of hard running, they are perfectly fine with zero movement in them.

This was a requested test! It sort of works. I need just a bit more pressure. But it really works great for brazing ! I do have a plasma cutter for up to 1/2" material. OH... don't let my dad see me use the torch as a hammer please! See my previous video for more info on this torch setup. Maybe I could use a 12 volt tire pump rigged up to intake the O2 and pressurize a small tank to like 50lb.

Simple setup with an adjustable regulator on the propane tank. Then directly from the concentrator for O2.

Just a quick video to get the tiller ready for a few more years ,,,I hope!
This is an early 1960's model tiller. It has seen a lot of dirt through it. This was easy and cheap. I was going to use a "hard surface" welding rod, but I really wanted to just save those rods for something more important. I was hoping for a good result. It worked great I think. I did not use any back up plate, just "air welded" it. Using 7016 for a few passes, then 10016 welding rods for the "cutting" leading edge. I will be good to go for years now. No pre heat or post heat. I did weld from the tip first, to the body of the tine. Making sure to go past the curve in it so there might be less weld stress than stopping on the bend area.

Is your LED light fixture too bright? Just a quick coat of flat white spray paint. One side of the cover. This defuses the light. You might thank me for this fix. Soooo much nicer to work around this light now. Dim your LED light!

This was a trick that a neighbor said to try.
Be positive there is zero fumes from old gas...ZERO!!!

Not much to say...it is time to change tires! Cost was $120 for tires and $15 for tubes. Some wire wheel cleaning and paint. Thank you neighbor for the help.

This was the worse carburetor I have EVER done. I did use a soak in some battery acid to help clean the rust inside the unit. After that, we used baking soda rinse several times. I had some extra help from my neighbor pals...Thank You. So after I got it back on, I did get it running before I videoed the startup you saw. I had to figure out how it liked to be choked to run at startup. It was then running without being choked when I took the video. The throttle linkage was so stuck with rust that it was soaking with oil for about a week before I got it loose. There was a worn out burr inside the float valve tube that made it stick open the first run. I reamed the tube where the needle is in to remove the burr. It works just fine now. I will have more videos of this whole repair project. It is in sad shape. The engine sounds so nice though. I did change the oil first. The distributor points didn't work...the spark plug wires are now new solid copper, with new plugs. How did you like my sediment bowl fix?

Now it is time to put the repaired fuel tank back in. There is a lot of parts that must come off to change the tank. I cleaned out the fuel lines and took off the bottom bowl of the carburetor and cleaned it. The oil was changed before I did anything to the generator. I do really like the LiFePo4 battery for starting. I tested the connections for it to make sure there is zero current draw from the battery when power switch is off. So this battery is not like a lead acid battery that goes flat, just sitting. I should be good testing it every 6 months. Just twice a year will keep it ready to use any time. I bought more of those new batteries for other pieces of equipment here. I had a BRAND NEW lead acid battery in another generator that went bad after 9 months of sitting. That will not happen now!

I bought a used Honda generator 3000is from a fellow at the flea market a while back. I payed $164 for it. It was all I had on me. It leaked gas a bit, so I knew it needed work. I got it home and got it started and noticed it was surging at idle speed. I put in some startron enzyme fluid in, and ran it for a bit and let it sit overnight. I always have some on hand, it is amazing! Started it the next day and it never surged again. I let it sit for a couple months and decided to check that gas leak out and make sure it would be safe to run. The tank was bone dry. So I took the tank off to see how bad it was. It was very bad! I bought a used one that looked a lot better than mine. I used some tank sealer called POR15. I never tried a sealer before. I LOVE that stuff. This video shows how I did the repair. I used a 200 watt soldering gun, and 60/40 solder with rosin flux. DO NOT use a flame to solder the tank if there is even a chance of fumes in it!!! I have zero affiliations with any products here. I will have a video on putting the generator back together soon. That sealer can save you in an emergency situation I bet. It saved me close to $200 for a tank, BUT, I REALLY saved way more because I fixed a generator that costs thousands. Gotta love a good flea market find!

First thing to note is, I am using 60/40 rosin core solder. I am using a weller brand soldering iron here. I would say that a 30 watt iron would do well on this, or whatever you have. I also believe this rivet is solid brass with a small steel plate attached, and that is the reason the magnet was drawn to it. I made my own spring from what I thought would solder well (made of steel). Make sure to pre-solder both parts. It ONLY takes 2-3 seconds to melt the plastic around the rivet. Please take your time for best results. It doesn't need to be perfect to work well. Even half the spring power of the original spring, will keep good contact with a battery. The "no solder method" works well, especially if you melt the plastic beyond repair.... it COULD happen. Just find small screws with a nut that would fit your situation. Lowes has #6-32 size screws. There is no real need to solder the whole rivet or spring base to each other. Just a good blob will even work. This may take two tries to get a strong enough bond when soldering. I hope this information is complete enough to help. Please let me know if this helped.

This is an easy project to make a very useful tool. There is LOUD audio signals in the video in the last part. As you can see it works both to extract a signal, or inject a signal. This makes it easier than trying to hook wires inside a radio. Much safer too. Any metal box will do. I just made mine because I can. Use any connectors that make you happy! This does not seem to make any change in SWR into a dummy load, that I can see. The toroid was from my junk bin, I am guessing that any type will work well here. I tested this before I closed it up. I suggest you do the same to see if you may want more or less turns on the toroid. I would NEVER transmit while you have a signal generator hooked into it. EVER! You could put a resistor divider network in here to drop the signal out to your scope even more if you wished to.

This is about a repair of a clock that was a survivor of a house fire. It has not worked in 20 years. So any need for cleaning, is from age and smoke. This is a 1955 built clock. So 68 years old. The rebuilt gearbox was pretty costly, in my opinion. It is however, rebuilt and warrantied for two years anyway. I have cleaned and oiled the mechanics inside too. Small adjustments to hammer arms for the chimes. The chimes sound awesome! I have bought a twisted pair cloth wire for it, but am still waiting for it. It will look so nice with that wire.
The man that owns it, wanted to surprise his wife with this gift, it has been in their family for many years. I am glad to be able to help.

Just an easy project to protect your equipment. This is way better than what you can get with most regular surge outlets. I have other videos about these MOV's to get a better understanding of them. The strip I got was about $20, and the MOV's are cheap when you buy a bunch. You can find good information about them by looking at Bournes or little fuse for MOV specs.
I used a 14D201K MOV and two 180CA TVI diodes. The gas discharge tube was a 350v. Like I said , I have a couple videos on EMP protection and surge protection, if you want a better understanding of these devices. Good luck and be careful with 120 volt circuits.

Just a quick video of a simple add-on for old radio test equipment. You CAN NOT use an LED on AC voltage. I am using a 12 volt DC LED, that can be purchased almost anywhere on line. Just doing what I do. Always use a diode with a greater voltage rating than what you are hooking it too, and the same goes for the capacitor voltage especially! DC capacitors tend to explode if they are subjected to AC voltage or under rated for the voltage applied.

If you stop the video at about 28 seconds you can see the name on the plane as QATAR ! Crazy zoom on this. I am not sure why there is so much "smoke" coming out of this. I did notice a big storm the next day though...hmmmm !

I had some old glass that I used to make a solar air heater. The downspouts cost about $9 a piece so with tax about $40 for 4 tubes cut in half. The AC insulated vent tubing to run from house to the heater cost $27 for 25 feet. The rest of the wood I had on hand. I used 3/8" OSB and its ok but not for the baffle section...I should have used plywood..but it will be just fine like this. I cracked the glass when it was in the sun for a while and then I turned on the fan to test it. The cold air blast caused the crack. It should never happen again since the fan comes on while it is just starting to heat up now. I used an old 12 volt computer fan for air circulation. I added two cutoff tubes at top and bottom to add a bit more heat. The thermal images at the end show first, two pictures of temperature in open air with no glass on it yet. Next two are of first warm-up at 9:30 am with outside temp of 60 degrees. The first is out going from the house, then the input to house from heater after fan started running. The next picture is at input from heater, about 10AM and 62 degrees outside. Then at 11am nd 64 outside temp. The last one is from about 12:30 and 67 degrees outside temp. It really blows some ice hot air, and a nice breeze too. It IS VERY worth making one of these !!!


Created 3 years, 8 months ago.

19 videos

Category DIY & Gardening