Keith_Noneya

Description: Hey Folks, this video is a 2003 CTS that has a PULSING turn over issue with a known good starter. It also shows how to manually test your starter while it’s still in the car, WITHOUT having to pull it or replace it. If it turns over easily using the relay bypass method, it’s NOT the starter.
If it doesn’t turn over easily you have one of eight possible problems:
1. A bad Starter, also don’t forget loose starter bolts that can cause bad ground connections.
2. A WEAK Battery. Charge it and place a voltmeter on the battery when starting. Below 10vdc bad.
3. A bad Solenoid mounted on the starter, their internal contacts get dirty and don’t work well. Jack the car up, put it on jack stands and smack the starter body with a heavy rod or hammer. If it starts easily while hitting it, it’s most likely the solenoid, but it can be bad brush contacts. Remove and have it tested.
4. A bad Battery connection, this can be the rings, bolts or corrosion on the post & battery connection pad.
5. A Bad Battery Cable. Either the Positive or the Negative. With a full battery charge, place a voltmeter on the battery when starting. Note the voltage is not below 10vdc. Next place the car on jack stands and place a voltmeter on the battery cable on the starter and try and start it. The battery voltage should be within a half a volt of the battery voltage. If not, the battery cable is most likely bad.
6. A bad Ground for your Negative Battery Cable. Remove and inspect both ends, clean re-install and test again.
7. Bad wires going to or from your fuse box to the starter Solenoid. Pull the connectors and inspect them for corrosion or burnt contacts. Clean if dirty, if not dirty use an ohm meter and test the resistance of the wires while wiggling them. The ohm should be not more than 1 ohm from end to end.
8. Corrosion in the fuse box. Use a light and inspect the pin contacts that are associated with the starter circuits. You’ll have to pull the IGN-1 & Starter Relays to see ins..

Part 2 can be seen here: https://www.bitchute.com/video/2EhgpLU6pARt/

Starter P/N: F5TU-11000 "3 hole unit"
Tools Used:
- 8 mm 3/8 drive Deep Socket.
- 15 mm 3/8 drive Deep Socket.
- 16 mm 3/8 drive Socket if you have an aftermarket starter.
- 17 mm 3/8 drive Deep Socket.
- 3/8 Drive Ratchet.
- 3/8 Drive Short (Stubby) Ratchet.
- 3/8 Drive 9" Extension.
- 13 mm Combination Wrench.
- 17 mm Combination Wrench.
- Battery Terminal Cleaner.

Description: Updated 25 Dec 2017: Before you go out and buy a starter it's important for you to know there are two starters for this year. One has three holes and one has two holes. Both will work from what some of viewers have told me. But the installation should be pretty much the same, minus one bolt. Personally I would go with the same one unless you know for sure the other will work.
So make sure you look at your starter to know which one you need, this video is for the three hole version. If you're still not sure crawl under the truck and look at it real good, maybe take a few pictures and go to the autoparts store. You may even take out the starter and take it to the store with you. The three holes are on eBay for around $75.00 to $105.00. Precision Diesel on eBay usually cost a few bucks more but they have a great return policy if you have a problem. I purchased the two hole version based on the compatibility chart on their site and they paid the return shipping and gave me a full refund. NO HASSLE what so ever.

My 7.3L became harder and harder to start. I checked the batteries and cables and they were fine so this led me to the starter. This video is how I removed my starter. I've been doing auto mechanics for years so as with all auto mechanical work some risk is involved. If you try this procedure you do it at your own risk.

I did a three part series on how to open, clean up the comutator and Brushes and then reassemble it.
They can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Vdvg...

Please feel free to comment to help others learn what you know as well. If you learned something or this helped please give me a thumbs up. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

Part 1 can be seen here: https://www.bitchute.com/video/dBfA4a9PIF2S/
Description: Updated 25 Dec 2017: CAUTION: Before you go out and buy a starter it's important for you to know there are two starters for these years. One has three holes and one has two holes. Both MAY work from what some of viewers have told me. I say MAY because some viewers say going from the 3 hole to 2 hole didn't work for them, even after three units. I have also had viewers say both units have worked for them. So if you want to take a chance on going to a 2 hole from a 3 hole go ahead, just be aware you may have to return it. If you purchased it from eBay they may not take it back because it was installed, making it used. If you do try going that route I would buy from a local parts store and not turn in the core until you know it will work. The installation should be pretty much the same for both units, minus one bolt. Personally I would go with the same unit you pulled unless you know for sure the other will work.
My MOTTO in vehicle repair is: "Vehicles are expensive, when it has to count the first time! Go with what you know, unless proven otherwise".

My 7.3L became harder and harder to start. I checked the batteries and cables and they were fine so this led me to the starter. This video is how I reinstalled my starter. I've been doing auto mechanics for years so as with all auto mechanical work some risk is involved. If you try this procedure you do it at your own risk.

Starter P/N: F5TU-11000 "3 hole unit"

Tools Used or Use Tool list at 1:42 in the video.
- 8 mm 3/8 drive Deep Socket.
- 15 mm 3/8 drive Deep Socket.
- 17 mm 3/8 drive Deep Socket.
- 3/8 Drive Ratchet.
- 3/8 Drive Short (Stubby) Ratchet.
- 3/8 Drive 9" Extension.
- 13 mm Combination Wrench.
- 17 mm Combination Wrench.
- Battery Terminal Cleaner.

I did a three part series on how to open, clean up the commutator and Brushes and then reassemble it.
They can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Vdvg...

Please feel free to comment to help others learn what you know as well. If you learned something or this helped please give me a thumbs up. Best Wishes & Blessings Keith

Description: 1999 to 2004 Intermittent, Dim or not working Overhead Display fix. Mine went dim and intermittent due to the Lead Free Solder joints going bad. This is how I fixed mine.
The Part Number for my display was: P/N: F81B-25519C44-A

If You don't have the skills you can get Rapid_Electronic on eBay to fix it for about $24.99 Here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F150-F2...

Music: End of Summer MP3, YouTube Free Music and standard License.

Parts Needed if your missing the resistors:
- 62 Ohm 1 Watt Ceramic SMT Resistor Vishay Dale P/N: CRCW251262R0JNEG
- 68 ohm 1 Watt Ceramic SMT Resistor Vishay Dale P/N: CRCW251268R0JNEG
Order them from Newark / Element14 at WWW.newark.com or another vender as needed.
- 15 Minute Epoxy, Optional.

Tools Used:
- Side Cutters.
- Acid Brush, cut short.
- Hobby Knife with pointed tip.
- Lab Glass or a plastic lid to mix 15min. Epoxy.
- Solder Iron.
- Safety Glasses.
- Electronics Repair Microscope (Optional).

Consumables Used:
- Solder, 60/40 or 70/30.
- Solder Wick/Braid.
- 90% or higher Isoprophyl Alcohol.
- Liquid RMA Flux or Solder Paste.

Thanks for watching. I hope the video and slide show helped.
Please give me a thumbs up for my work and comment to share your knowledge or help others with my video.
If you'd like to help my channel please subscribe.
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Why is Lead Free used?
Lead Free solder was designed to reduce the lead that ends up in the water table where we get our drinking water from. Lead makes its way there via landfills when electronic devices are no longer wanted and thrown into the trash.
In concept the idea seems valid, but in reality it actually makes the problem worse. Here's why, Lead free solder over time becomes brittle and through normal use of heating and cooling added to that vibration from the item being used the solder joints break down. When the items break we do one of two things; 1. Throw it in the trash which ends them up in the land fill, or 2. Repair it.
Most people don't know how to repair it and the cost of repairing it is far more that the cost of buying a new one. So most people are forced to throw the item in the trash and buy a new one.
If the part had been assembled with lead solder the part would not have broken so easily and would not end up in the landfill for decades. When's the last time you saw an antique radio or an old automotive radio fail from an old lead soldered joint. I have a radio from 1936 in my house and it works fine. Lead free Solder is so unreliable that it has been banned for use in Aviation and Military Critical electronic devices. In fact it's suspected to be directly involved in an airline crash that killed several people when the computer failed due to bad Lead Free solder joints.
Lead Free Solder is also the leading cause of automotive computer and automotive environmental control failures and may be linked to
several deadly crashes when automotive engines shut down due to faulty Lead Free Solder joints in the ECM. So if you want your device to work reliable for decades resolder all your failing devices with leaded solder. Lead free solder, in "MY OPINION", is NOT good for the environment, but is good for electronic suppliers and the automotive industry. There are big bucks in replacing all those devices that will prematurely fail from normal use because of Lead Free Solder. If they really wanted to solve this problem, they should use Silver, it melts at a little higher temperature and is none toxic to the water table.
Also people would want it to reclaim all that silver in it. With all that Silver in new electronics, newer broken electronic devices would become valuable scrap overnight. Thanks again. Keith

Description: This is a short video on how to change the ICP on a T444E 7.3L Turbo Diesel engine. They are typically found in the 1994 to 2003 F250-F350 Series Ford Trucks or E250-E350 Series Vans.
Symptoms I had:
- Idle that seemed to have a miss.
- Oil on the driveway. It turns out it was the ICP leaking inside the connector.
- Low power from a stop.

I changed it and I noticed a better Idle and even a better pick up when I stepped on the throttle.

The procedure may be slightly different for your vehicle but you'll get the idea.

The procedure is straight forward. Simply remove the upper cover over the Fuel filter, the ICP Sensor electrical connector, unscrew the old one and screw in the new one, then put everything back the way you took it off.

Part Numbers that apply:
- F4TZ-9F838-A, for 1994 to early 1997 it will work but I've read where it will fail sooner if used in a 97.5 to 2003 7.3.
- F6TZ-9F838-A, F6TZ is for 1997.5 to 2003.
- 1807329C92 (the one I used).
- 1807329C91 (OLD one Obsolete)
- ICP102.
Prices range from $16.60 to $238.00 depending on who you buy from, and if you purchase a actual Ford Sensor. My 1807329C92 is still working as of Jan 2018.

Tools I used:
- 3/8" to 1/2" Drive Adapter.
- 3/8" Drive 16mm or 17mm Crowfoot Wrench. (If you have the old style installed, see time index 3:04 to check if you have it. Old is on right).
- 3/8" Drive 3" Extension.
- 3/8" Drive 6" inch Extension.
- 3/8" Drive Ratchet.
- 1/2" Drive 27mm Deep Socket.
- Shop Rag.
- 12" inches of 2" Painters or heavy duty tape. (Used to cover the alternator Positive Terminal). A heavy rag or peice of cloth could also be used. Don't forget to remove the tape when you're done as I didn't show it in the video.
- Step Stool or a mechanics platform to step or lay on. Those engines are really high.

If the video helped please give me a thumbs up. Also subscribe if
you like the videos i'm doing for you all.
Thanks for watching! Best Wishes n Blessings KeithI didn't show it in the video.

If the video helped please give me a thumbs up. Also sucscribe if you like the videos i'm doing for you all.
Thanks for watching! Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

Description: 1997-2003 F250 F350 7.3L CPS Sensor F7TZ-12K073-B Change

My 2001 F350 7.3L stumbles sometimes when i'm going down the freeway, it's not the first time it's done this so I knew what it was.

The 7.3 International CPS sensor goes bad sometimes, it either Fails or goes Intermittent. The OEM Ford 7.3L Diesel Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) F7TZ-12K073-B should fit 1997-2003 Ford F250/350/450/550 7.3L Diesels.

1. If it fails, its very obvious, the engine just won't run and when replaced the engine runs. There are other things that cause the engine not to run, this is just one of them. Here's some other issues that may cause it.

2. If it's Intermittent the engine will have a subtle stumble or cut in and out.

3. There are three other sensors that commonly cause the engine to stumble or fail to start as well, they are the:
- APPS/AGPS Accelerator/Gas Pedal Position Sensor (gas peddle assembly).
- ICP Injection Control Pressure Sensor.
- EBP Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor.
They cost around $25.00 dollars each, except the APPS it's around $80.00.

4. The easiest way to diagnose it, if you don't have computer software, is to change it. If that's not the problem then you have a spare sensor to put behind the seat of your truck so when it goes bad you'll have one, and one of them will go out, guaranteed.

Part Used in this video:
- Ford CPS OEM P/N: F7TZ-12K073-B about: $27.00 off eBay.
The aftermarket ones cost about: $13.00 off eBay. I recommend using the Ford Part Number.

Tools Used:
- 10 mm 3/8" Drive Socket.
- 3" 3/8" Drive Extension.
- 6" 3/8" Stubby Ratchet.
- 1/2" to 3/8" Adapter, to break it loose, not shown in video.
- 1/2" Drive Ratchet, to break it loose, not shown in video.
- Shop Rag, to break it loose, not shown in video.

Chemicals Used:
- None this video.

If this helped please give me a Thumbs up.
Subscribe if you would like to help my channel.
Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

How to change your front shocks on a 1999-2001 F350 7.3L 4WD Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab SRW
Shock P/N: Monroe 911195 Front Shock Absorber for 99-04 Ford Super Duty Truck 4WD

Do a Summitracing search here:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kyb-565044/overview/year/2001/make/ford/model/f-350-super-duty/submodel/lariat

For Amazon try this link: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=shock+absorber&i=automotive&af=%7B%22vehicle%22%3A%222001-54-670-696-45-53--8-3501--3--848---1%22%7D&ref=sx_pf_dsk_mvftr
Enter your truck then pull up only 4 stars or better. I try to always choose one that has at least 20 or more views and read the comments!

Interchange Part Numbers: 344077, KG5441, G63809, 911195, 77809, KG5043
Other Part Numbers: 344412, 1924077, KYB344077, 382 18057 424, 1844171

Recommended Chemicals: Lubricating Oil, i.e. PB Blaster, WD-40 etc.

Minimum Tools Required:
- 21mm Combination Wrench
- 18mm Combination Wrench
- 15mm Combination Wrench
- Medium Duty Jack Stand
- 2 1/2 Ton Hydraulic Floor Jack
- Wheel Chock, or 4"x4"x12" block of wood (no 2"x4" block)
- Lug nut Wrench, prefer Star Wrench
- Lug nut Security Key if you have wheel locks
- Ball peen Hammer, Medium
- 6 inch Punch
- 12" Pry bar or larger
- 6" Side Cutters (Dikes)

Recommended Additional Tools:
- 1/2" Torque Wrench
- 3/8" drive 6" Stubby Ratchet
- 3/8" to 1/2" Drive Adapter
- 1/2" Drive 21mm Deep Socket
- 1/2" Drive 18mm Deep Socket
- 1/2" Drive 15mm Deep Socket
- Mechanics Seat
- Wire Brush, Small
- Shop Rag
Comments welcome, to expound on my video to help others.

Description: Hey guys every now and then I have to move a dead car in my driveway, uphill. Usually it's heavy enough that it would take three people and I usually only have two. So I do what I call the Parallel Pull. This is VERY helpful as you can't pull a car all the way up to the garage door by pulling with a car in front of it. So one day I figured out I could Parallel Pull the cars side by side. I tried it years ago and multiple times since. I had to do it a few days ago and I though heck this may help someone, so I decided to post it.
AHHH the dreaded disclaimer. I'm not a professional car mover and since I'm not there to supervise your work, if you do this, you do it at your own risk.
If you learned something, please give the video a thumbs up. If you would like to help my channel please subscribe. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

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Created 1 month, 2 weeks ago.

8 videos

CategoryAuto & Vehicles

Hey folks I'm new to BC & moving my videos from YouTube, same channel name, to BitChute. My channel will be about fixing cars, electronic equipment, computers and some simple yard equipment fixes. Please give my video a thumbs up you you learned something and subscribe if you want to help my channel. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya