Garage Door Opener Chamberlain Residential Opener, Volts 120V, Amp 6, Hz 60, HP 1/2, MFG Date 02/20/2007, Model 3265 , Serial No 082712200396, Circuit Board Part No. 41AC050-2, IC:102 1499 , Date: 02/07

0:11 Explanation of problem: Door button flashes green LED
This probably means Logic Board Failure
1:00 Unplug from power
1:18 Unplug wires
1:56 Unscrew logic board portion of opener
2:26 Unplug logic board
3:03 Plug in new logic board
3:33 Screw new logic board portion back on
3:37 Plug wires back in
4:17 Plug opener back in
You are finished with the logic board.

At this point I had an issue witht he interrupter cup/RPM sensor and this is how I fixed that:
4:45 Door would only travel 6 to 8 inches
5:15 LED above Learn button flashed 5 times, paused flashed in bursts of 5 times indicating RPM sensor malfunction
5:34 Location of interrupter cup
5:55 Removed interrupter cup, make sure clip is all the way on and put cup back on as far as you can on the motor shaft
6:35 Don't forget to reprogram your remotes

6:46 Bloopers

“Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then” and that’s my motto for these DIY videos. I am not a professional in any area covered in these videos, just an average guy trying to save money by doing things on my own. Obviously I only post the videos if I was successful, and so I hope I can help you out. I made these videos mainly because I couldn’t find one for my specific project on YouTube.
Ask any questions you have in the comments, but just know I don’t really know anything & just figured it out along the way. If you know anything about the project in this video or have experience yourself, please by all means comment and tell me what I should have known or done differently!

“Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then” and that’s my motto for these DIY videos. I am not a professional in any area covered in these videos, just an average guy trying to save money by doing things on my own. Obviously I only post the videos if I was successful, and so I hope I can help you out. I made these videos mainly because I couldn’t find one for my specific project on YouTube.
Ask any questions you have in the comments, but just know I don’t really know anything & just figured it out along the way. If you know anything about the project in this video or have experience yourself, please by all means comment and tell me what I should have known or done differently!

From Lawrence's Channel. 1-17-11...I think this was Daniel Dawson's bachelor party??
Jake and Josh are the crazy loons.

In this episode, somehow future me comes to explain a few things about replacing my 2006 Honda Pilot's CV axels that would have been nice to know beforehand.

For the full replacement video go here:
https://youtu.be/shTt1nHwPHc

“Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then” and that’s my motto for these DIY videos. I am not a professional in any area covered in these videos, just an average guy trying to save money by doing things on my own. Obviously I only post the videos if I was successful, and so I hope I can help you out. I made these videos mainly because I couldn’t find one for my specific project on YouTube.
Ask any questions you have in the comments, but just know I don’t really know anything & just figured it out along the way. If you know anything about the project in this video or have experience yourself, please by all means comment and tell me what I should have known or done differently!

#cvaxel #cvjoint #replacement #2006hondapilot #pilot #honda
Skip Intro: 0:45
This first part was the footage I took starting on the passenger side but didn't finishing recording. This video is mainly about the driver side, but I left this beginning part in to show how hard it was getting the axel/hub nut off.

Future Josh gave me few pointers I wish I knew before doing this job: https://youtu.be/eWQLaAmyhdc?si=q_l3TirGT8xsvcPs

3.19 Staring on the DRIVER'S SIDE
Unstaking the axel/hub nut and then breaking it loose and then the breaking the lug nuts loose

4:19 Jack up this side and remove the tire.
4:54 Remove brake line retainer (12mm) and the ABS sensor (10mm) to get them out of the way.
5:23 Remove strut mount bolts (24mm)
5:55 Tap on end of axel to slide it out of the hub.
6:16 Pry out old CV axel
8:03 Replacing the axel seal
9:10 Inserting new CV axel
10:39 Getting outter splines into the hub
11:48 Put in top strut mount bolt first, then lower bolt (24mm) with 116 ft/lbs torque
12:20 Reattach ABS sensor and brake line
12:45 Thread on axel/hub nut
13:07 Put tire back on and hand tighten lug nuts. THEN take car off the jack
13:19 Torque lug nuts to 80 ft/lbs and axel/hub nut to 210 ft/lbs
13:37 Stake the axel/hub nut
13:47 Be sure to check your ATF, especially if you saw any come out in the process.
14:06 Bloopers

“Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then” and that’s my motto for these DIY videos. I am not a professional in any area covered in these videos, just an average guy trying to save money by doing things on my own. Obviously I only post the videos if I was successful, and so I hope I can help you out. I made these videos mainly because I couldn’t find one for my specific project on YouTube.
Ask any questions you have in the comments, but just know I don’t really know anything & just figured it out along the way. If you know anything about the project in this video or have experience yourself, please by all means comment and tell me wh..

0:20 Intro
0:29 Tools & Supplies
1:17 Dipstick location
1:31 Oil cap location
1:54 Removing splash guard
3:40 Location of oil drain plug
3:58 Pulling drain plug (17mm socket)
5:03 Location of oil filter
6:07 Removing old oil filter
7:20 Installing new oil filter (Fram PH9688) (Tightening torque :
1.2 ~ 1.6 kgf.m)
8:02 Putting plug back in (Oil pan drain plug tightening torque:
3.5 ~ 4.5 kgf.m (2.7L)
4.0 ~ 4.5 kgf.m (2.0L))
8:23 Filling with new oil, 4.76 qts of 5W-20 oil
9:52 Putting splash guard back on

“Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then” and that’s my motto for these DIY videos. I am not a professional in most areas covered in these videos, just an average guy trying to save money by doing things on my own. Obviously I only post the videos if I was successful, and so I hope I can help you out.
Ask any questions you have in the comments, but just know I don’t really know anything & just figured it out along the way. If you know anything about the project in this video or have experience yourself, please by all means comment and tell me what I should have known or done differently!

0:26 Intro
0:42 Location of oil cap & dipstick
1:40 Location of oil plug

“Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then” and that’s my motto for these DIY videos. I am not a professional in most areas covered in these videos, just an average guy trying to save money by doing things on my own. Obviously I only post the videos if I was successful, and so I hope I can help you out.
Ask any questions you have in the comments, but just know I don’t really know anything & just figured it out along the way. If you know anything about the project in this video or have experience yourself, please by all means comment and tell me what I should have known or done differently!

Winterization of a Champion Master Cool ADA 51 Down Draft Evaporative Cooler.

0:20 Intro
0:30 Shut off system
0:38 Shut vent inside house
0:53 Shut off water supply (In the video I said to turn it perpendicular to the line...I actually realized, this type of valve, just turn in clockwise until its shut)
1:17 Open unit
1:37 Unscrew drain pipe, inside pull pipe out to let water out. Sop up sitting water. (The following year I went ahead & took the pads out to clean out the inside and this made it WAY easier)
2:44 Install winterizing panel, or if you want to save money like I did, cut some scrap paneling to put behind the intake grill.
3:35 Slide in winterizing damper into roof jack. (Most roof jacks don't have one of these) Hardware stores sell a duct pillow you can shove into your duct to block all airflow, but you would have to take off your vent inside the house to put it in.
4:11 Blow out your water water line. (Or chance not doing it like I did)
5:16 Optional care: remove belt from blower pulley to relieve tension. Oil the motor.

**Summerizing is basically the reverse

“Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then” and that’s my motto for these DIY videos. I am not a professional in most areas covered in these videos, just an average guy trying to save money by doing things on my own. Obviously I only post the videos if I was successful, and so I hope I can help you out. I made these videos mainly because I couldn’t find one for my specific project on YouTube.
Ask any questions you have in the comments, but just know I don’t really know anything & just figured it out along the way. If you know anything about the project in this video or have experience yourself, please by all means comment and tell me what I should have known or done differently!

0:12 Intro (Mine is a Rainbird ESP-LX Plus)
0:28 Step 1, turn off water from city. Check your hardware store for compatible sprinkler key.
2:56 Open ball valve 1 and test cock 1. Shut ball valve 2.
3:43 Attach air to blow out back-flow preventer. (See this video for a break down of how I put this adaptor together: https://youtu.be/KiWkELqWnDU) Charge tank to max or 100psi or whatever, but set your outgoing air to 50 to 80psi. I found out later that the danger of melting PVC pipes with too much pressure wasn't as serious as I thought and 80psi is probably fine.
4:31 Leave ball valve 1 and test cocks at a 45˚ angle.
4:54 With ball valve 2 closed, open T leading to yard zones.
5:24 The guy who helped me said its not as dangerous as I thought to pump air in with no zones open- turns out I needed to do this later.
5:50 Attach air, select zone and hit Main Start/ADV button.
6:23 Repeat for all zones.
6:50 Manually opening zones using the solenoids.
7:20 If you're having the situation that I was, the heads not coming up even with 80 or so psi, leave the air on the system with no zones open for a while to charge the main line.
7:58 Let heads blow until the water has turned to a mist.
8:50 Set you 2nd ball valve to a 45˚ angle. You should be ready for winter.

“Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then” and that’s my motto for these DIY videos. I am not a professional in most areas covered in these videos, just an average guy trying to save money by doing things on my own. Obviously I only post the videos if I was successful, and so I hope I can help you out.
Ask any questions you have in the comments, but just know I don’t really know anything & just figured it out along the way. If you know anything about the project in this video or have experience yourself, please by all means comment and tell me what I should have known or done differently!

0:38 Removing the back seat
1:24 Removing access plate
2:10 Unplugging the electrical
2:22 Unplugging fuel pump relay
3:01 Disconnecting the negative battery terminal
3:34 Unplugging fuel lines
4:16 Removing fuel pump housing retaining bolts
5:12 Removing the old fuel pump
5:30 Pumping gas out of the tank
6:40 Inserting new fuel pump
7:12 Reconnecting the fuel lines

This took me about 3 1/2 hours.
I got my Delphi fuel pump/filter housing from
rockauto.com

“Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then” and that’s my motto for these DIY videos. I am not a professional in any area covered in these videos, just an average guy trying to save money by doing things on my own. Obviously I only post the videos if I was successful, and so I hope I can help you out. I made these videos mainly because I couldn’t find one for my specific project on YouTube.
Ask any questions you have in the comments, but just know I don’t really know anything & just figured it out along the way. If you know anything about the project in this video or have experience yourself, please by all means comment and tell me what I should have known or done differently!

0:16 Loose chain
0:58 Loosen "set nut" (13mm)
1:08 Tighten nut on left
1:47 If you have a "T Rail", the proper tension is 1/2" off the rail at the center of the rail.
2:17 Tighten up "set nut"

“Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then” and that’s my motto for these DIY videos. I am not a professional in most areas covered in these videos, just an average guy trying to save money by doing things on my own. Obviously I only post the videos if I was successful, and so I hope I can help you out.
Ask any questions you have in the comments, but just know I don’t really know anything & just figured it out along the way. If you know anything about the project in this video or have experience yourself, please by all means comment and tell me what I should have known or done differently!

0:00 Intro and designing the background image.
0:46 New document in InDesign.
1:10 Start on your Master Page
1:12 Import your background design. (5up in this example)
1:56 New layer for names or numbers.
2:05 Draw first text box. (Draw text box just the size of final text so that the next name or number will be forced into the next text box)
2:34 Add the rest of the text boxes on the Master Page
2:44 Thread text boxes on Master Page
3:17 Apply Master Page to page one (if it didn't automatically)
3:33 Copy names or numbers from source (Or import, Cmd+D) from source document. (Sorry my screen capture cut off the actual list of numbers)
4:17 Paste names or numbers into the first txt box. Autoflow will add as many pages as needed until all names or numbers are used.
4:47 Apply font characteristics or apply character style.

Alternate method:
This is handy for flowing hundreds of names into a name tag template, flowing hundreds of numbers onto like tickets that need unique numbers, etc. when there is a multiple-up of the item.
1. Design the name tag or ticket or whatever in
Photoshop, Illustrator or Indesign. Put the design
on a Master Page in a multiple-up.
2. Lock its layer & make a new layer for the names or
numbers.
3. On the name/number layer, draw a text box the
size, placement and position it needs to be on the
design. You can go ahead and set the character
style here (& delete it so its empty for later) but
usually when the names/numbers are imported
it overrides. It’s important to make the box close
to the final text size so that the next
name/number will flow to the next text box
(unless you don’t mind hitting return to position
each name/number.)
4. Copy paste that box (or step & repeat it) for the
other designs of the multiple-up.
5. Now, link the boxes with a regular Manual Text Flow.
6. Drag that Master to page 1.
7. At this point I have copied a list of names or
numbers from anywhere and pasted them in and
had it work. However, my latest attempt I seem to
have needed to Control D place the text. DO NOT
COMMAND-SHIFT-CLICK to select text box. Just
Control D and hover over the first text box.
Notice the squiggly cursor.
This is the AUTOFLOW cursor.
8. HOLD SHIFT for autoflowing the text. The names or
numbers will flow from the 1st text box, through
each of those linked on the master and then will
add a page and do the same over and over until all
your text is used. I’ve used this feature in a
situation with several different areas of flowing
text and its works there too. (Days of the week and
hours of the day in two different positions on the
design)
9. Now you can select text in the first frame, Control A
and format the text anyway you like or apply a
Character Style.
Unfortunetly, at this point this is still something I haven’t figured
out: when you need to add names/numbers later, it won’t
continue the autoflow, it will just overset the additional text.

Night Rave by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution licen