Long overdue follow up on the head replacements on the 2000 F150 5.4L Triton

On The Road. Aired Aug 05, 2001

https://www.facebook.com/groups/jeffbrooks

More talk than action in this video guys, really wanted to get the information out on how to do heads in-frame on this engine. Thanks for bearing with me.

Procedure write up I posted at the Ford trucks forum:

Okay, I have it figured out and I'll post it here to help anyone else that's looking for this information. It's actually quite simple, but I waded though a LOT of vague and inaccurate info before the proper procedure became clear. Cams do NOT have to be removed for this procedure.
Haynes says to pull the head with the tool, which is not possible, but we know Haynes and Chiltons often take short cuts when they write up their books.
The Service manual says to pull the engine then remove the cam rollers, lol that's no help at all.

Here's what you do:

1) Clock the woodruff key on the crankshaft @ 12 O'clock. In this position all the cylinders are way below deck and will not interfere with any open valves in your heads.
2) Install heads. (Do not worry about cam position at this step.)
3) Install cam lock tools and clock R/S cam @ 11 O'clock and L/S @ 12 O'clock. At this point the valves for #1 and #6 are closed.
4) Turn the crank counterclockwise and use the crank tool to align with block pin. STOP at the block pin per proper tool position. You MUST turn counterclockwise as this will bring #1 and #6 to TDC and will have no interference with pistons/valves. If you turn it clockwise you will rotate other pistons into the other valves in the heads that are open.

That's it, install new timing set per instructions at this point an you're good to go. Hope that helps someone.

Working on small stuff until the replacement heads come in. Fixing the compressor, replacing the oil pump.

Swivel head gear wrench: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBF660

We finish up here with engine tuning and freeing up a stuck Free Wheeling Pin and go for a short test drive.

Let's do some starter/generator R&R to see if we can speed up its starting ability.

Video on armature testing procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNV7TylIzSY

Bolens 1050 tractor is going to be a back-saving tote goat with its newly installed ball hitch.
It's been sitting 5 years, what will it take to start it up again?

Part 2 the heads come off and a closer look at possible a/c compressor repair.

Let's dig deeper into the 2000 Ford F150 5.4L 2V to diagnosis the cause of a catastrophic failure. (Hydrolocked engine due to #4 cylinder filling up with coolant.)

Excellent video on the timing set replace in these engines:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Va5CmtrMjo

The vendor I bought my cam tools from appears to be gone. Searching located this deal which looks to be the current best option:

https://www.amazon.com/iFJF-Camshaft-Holding-Tool-Econoline/dp/B07HFNXS5F/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=5.4l+camshaft+tool&qid=1588647522&sr=8-2

Master cylinder installed, system bled and tested. All is well.

In Part 3 we rebuild and reinstall the dual-piston calipers in the 1985 F250 4x4

Those with an agenda hide facts, this video was removed from YouTube. The shelter in place nonsense needs to end.

In part 2 we start the repairs of the brake system in the '85 F250 4x4 by replacing a broken spring and a leaking wheel cylinder.

Parts from rockauto.com

Tools I recommend for drum brake work:

https://www.harborfreight.com/drum-brake-spring-pliers-kit-3-pc-63640.html

Trying to fix a start then stall issue on this old Stihl Chainsaw, 031AV

Installing a new carburetor.

Carburetor source: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-for-Stihl-031-031AV-030-Chainsaw-Walbro-WA-2-WA-2-1-1113-120-0602/254011481749

In part 1 we do a full brake inspection on an '85 F250 Four Wheel Drive after a total brake failure.

Note: I tend to interchange the terms "shoe" and "pad", but the correct nomenclature is disc brakes use pads, drum brakes use shoes.

Be safe, check EVERYTHING when doing brake repair. This video is a great example of how there may be more problems then the initial one that caused the repair in the first place.

Final video on the free Champion generator basket-case. Assembly and testing.

Installing a secondary JB in this old house to make the wiring safer and easier to work on while repairing a bad connection issue.

NOTE: Working on household current is NOT for the average do-it-yourselfer, if done wrong it can permanently flip your off switch. Get help or hire a professional. This video is not a how-to, it is for entertainment purposes.

Join me as I replace, again, the shocks in this 1993 Ford Crown Victoria.

Join us in part 12 as the 1966 Dodge A100 Van moves under its own power for the first time in years!

Cooling system fine tuning and fluid checks.

The rabbit hole keeps getting deeper with this 1966 Dodge A100 Van, but here in part 11 the new water pump finally gets installed on the slant six.

Changing a thermostat turns into an episode itself in part 10 of this long series.

Dayco Heater Hose, 5/8" x 6': https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayco-Heater-Hose-5-8-x-6-80292/151471927937

All other replacement parts from: https://www.rockauto.com/

More reassembly and testing of the Free Champion Generator.
Includes governor adjust.

In part 9 we reinstall and test the junk brake master cylinder in the 1966 Dodge A100 Van.

In part 4 we reassemble the primary components on the Champion generator for a possible start up.
Including valve lash adjustment.

Cylinder and head cleaning, inspection, and re-installation on the 6.5hp Champion Generator.

Engine gasket set: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cylinder-Head-Gasket-Kit-For-Champion-Power-Equipment-6-5-HP-3500-4000-Generator/254015501481