My wife shows you how to make her homemade face mask. Here's the pattern: https://loghomejourney.files.wordpress.com/2020/03/bestfacemask.pdf
We learn to use a rotating laser level we borrowed from a neighbor. And then learn how to double check our lines with a water level. This is a Skip's Method Butt & Pass Log Home Builders Association (LHBA) home. Blog is here: https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/
I bought a 40 foot ladder from a guy so I can reach the ridgepole and the fascia board at the peak of the roof, which is about 33 feet up. My other ladder is only 24 feet, and the scaffolding is only 18 feet. I noticed while installing the roof that the 24 foot ladder could barely reach the eaves on the East side, so a taller ladder really is needed. I figure with this 40 footer I can finally reach everywhere on this house. But it is almost too heavy for one person to set up by themselves. And it was missing a rope to extend it. I went to the orange box and bought some hardware and some rope. I also was inspired by this website: https://makezine.com/projects/easy-lift-extension-ladder/.
And by the way- the 2 - 3 videos I watched on how to put a new rope on your ladder - are wrong. You actually should tie the rope to the bottom of the ladder instead of leaving it loose, IMO.
How we got and moved the logs for our home. I cut over 100 trees from mine and the neighbor's property. I also got some from the neighbors around the corner. These are all trees that would have eventually been bulldozed and burned if we had not harvested them, since they were considered "too crooked" for the mill.
Someone asked for an update- I'm still filling bee holes. But on the inside. yeah. The deadline to get the cabin ready for carpenter bee season is still early April. I want it caulked, filled, sanded, and stained. And I want 57 bee traps made out of mason jars. I've read and heard from other log cabin owners that if you can defeat the bees for one season, they're less likely to return the next year. Staining the logs dissuades them. Either way, I can't fill the holes after I stain, because that will look bad. That's your update.
A nearly 100 year old Structo ArtCraft Loom I received from a friend / fellow log home builder. He found it along with a couple spinning wheels and tons of knitting stuff in his mother's home after she passed away. I strung it up this weekend and tested it out- I have no idea what I'm doing, but it is fun! Maybe I can make something out of this cloth.
That's what I call this. Useful knot for dragging things, and then easy to release them. only holds while tension is applied.
How we installed lifting poles and the 1st layer of logs (https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/2017/06/10/houston-we-have-lift-off/ and https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/2017/06/22/1st-layer-done/):
- Dig 4 foot deep holes, with an angled trench leading down to the hole. The trench ends up being 3' deep near the hole. Don't dig the trench down to 4 feet because you need that at least a foot on all sides to keep the pole upright once it is vertical.
- prepare poles with cleats to hold the tie ropes in place. Each pole gets 2 tie / anchor / guy ropes.
- call your buddies from church to come help. About 8 guys should be able to do it. You need two of the guys to hold the anchor ropes so the pole doesn't go sideways.
- use a long aircraft cable and a tractor. have the guys start lifting the pole. Once the pole is about 6' off the ground, the tractor can take it the rest of the way. The two guys on anchor stay on anchor until the pole pops into the hole.
- fill in the hole around the pole with dirt, and tie the two anchor ropes to the base of the neighboring poles. These ropes relieve bending stress on the poles caused by lifting logs. My logs weigh between 3,000 - 6,000 lbs.
- hang pulleys from the lifting poles. Triple blocks are best for rope, which will give you a 7:1 advantage (a 5,600 lb log becomes a manageable 800 lb log when using a triple block).
- lay the log next to the piers. for the 1st layer of logs, make sure the part of the log facing down is facing up and drill holes that line up with the rebar. for 1/2" rebar, drill holes that are either 5/8" or even 3/4". bigger holes mean easier to slide onto rebar. For all other layers, use 1/2" holes for 1/2" rebar. Roll the log back over. Use straps and a tractor (or a car) to lift logs. Use a second car to stabilize the log over the rebar.
- lower log onto rebar. Bend excess 6" of rebar over log once in place, and cut off the extra beyond that. Done.
- next layer, offset drill holes by 2'. Only drill through 1st log, and pound rebar into lower log. Don't sharpen rebar to a point- it'll split the log.
This is how we did it:
Using piers for this foundation made it possible to use about 24 cubic yards of concrete, instead of about 45 cubic yards for a typical home, while still maintaining structural integrity. According to 2 engineers, the 1st layer of logs provides the strength that a footer would typically provide.
We used 5/8" - 3/4" plywood half sheets I found on craigslist- they were 4'x4' sheets. The guy I bought them from said they were used one time each to ship wheels to the GM plant. We used 3' square based truncated pyramidal piers as laid out on our plans, except for the 3 largest piers- those I made even larger- 5.5' square, and 5' tall.
Nailed the forms together with ringshank nails, then added 3 collars to each form.
Laid them all out in the foundation holes. buried them up to their necks with dirt, just in case. Had the cement truck fill the inner piers first, then come back the next day and fill the outer piers. It took three trucks of cement. It cost about $1200. Put a piece of rebar in each one while wet.
Waited two weeks and then un-buried the piers, peeled the plywood off. Found the piers were somewhat bumpy- didn't beat the concrete hard enough, so mixed up more cement and covered the faces of the piers. topped off with felt and pressure treated wood.
The logs are drilled and then set down on each piece of rebar. The rebar is bent over the top of the log to hold the log in place.
I welded this shingle elevator to lift boards and stuff up on the roof. So far, it's lifted about 17,000 lbs of lumber, foam, shingles, plywood, tar paper, nails and screws, 24 feet at a time. I hook up a 7:1 pulley I originally made for lifting logs, and 200 feet of 5/8" poly rope. I load the elevator with supplies, I tie the rope to the car, and back up. Then climb the ladder and unload the stuff onto the roof.
Created 2 years, 4 months ago.
|Category||DIY & Gardening|
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Video types you may see:
How to videos:
-Building a Log Cabin with block and tackle
-working with logs
-using a sawmill
-Using LHBA Butt & Pass method
--Ukulele, Piano, song arrangements
--interesting natural things