That's what I call this. Useful knot for dragging things, and then easy to release them. only holds while tension is applied.
How we installed lifting poles and the 1st layer of logs (https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/2017/06/10/houston-we-have-lift-off/ and https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/2017/06/22/1st-layer-done/):
- Dig 4 foot deep holes, with an angled trench leading down to the hole. The trench ends up being 3' deep near the hole. Don't dig the trench down to 4 feet because you need that at least a foot on all sides to keep the pole upright once it is vertical.
- prepare poles with cleats to hold the tie ropes in place. Each pole gets 2 tie / anchor / guy ropes.
- call your buddies from church to come help. About 8 guys should be able to do it. You need two of the guys to hold the anchor ropes so the pole doesn't go sideways.
- use a long aircraft cable and a tractor. have the guys start lifting the pole. Once the pole is about 6' off the ground, the tractor can take it the rest of the way. The two guys on anchor stay on anchor until the pole pops into the hole.
- fill in the hole around the pole with dirt, and tie the two anchor ropes to the base of the neighboring poles. These ropes relieve bending stress on the poles caused by lifting logs. My logs weigh between 3,000 - 6,000 lbs.
- hang pulleys from the lifting poles. Triple blocks are best for rope, which will give you a 7:1 advantage (a 5,600 lb log becomes a manageable 800 lb log when using a triple block).
- lay the log next to the piers. for the 1st layer of logs, make sure the part of the log facing down is facing up and drill holes that line up with the rebar. for 1/2" rebar, drill holes that are either 5/8" or even 3/4". bigger holes mean easier to slide onto rebar. For all other layers, use 1/2" holes for 1/2" rebar. Roll the log back over. Use straps and a tractor (or a car) to lift logs. Use a second car to stabilize the log over the rebar.
- lower log onto rebar. Bend excess 6" of rebar over log once in place, and cut off the extra beyond that. Done.
- next layer, offset drill holes by 2'. Only drill through 1st log, and pound rebar into lower log. Don't sharpen rebar to a point- it'll split the log.
This is how we did it:
Using piers for this foundation made it possible to use about 24 cubic yards of concrete, instead of about 45 cubic yards for a typical home, while still maintaining structural integrity. According to 2 engineers, the 1st layer of logs provides the strength that a footer would typically provide.
We used 5/8" - 3/4" plywood half sheets I found on craigslist- they were 4'x4' sheets. The guy I bought them from said they were used one time each to ship wheels to the GM plant. We used 3' square based truncated pyramidal piers as laid out on our plans, except for the 3 largest piers- those I made even larger- 5.5' square, and 5' tall.
Nailed the forms together with ringshank nails, then added 3 collars to each form.
Laid them all out in the foundation holes. buried them up to their necks with dirt, just in case. Had the cement truck fill the inner piers first, then come back the next day and fill the outer piers. It took three trucks of cement. It cost about $1200. Put a piece of rebar in each one while wet.
Waited two weeks and then un-buried the piers, peeled the plywood off. Found the piers were somewhat bumpy- didn't beat the concrete hard enough, so mixed up more cement and covered the faces of the piers. topped off with felt and pressure treated wood.
The logs are drilled and then set down on each piece of rebar. The rebar is bent over the top of the log to hold the log in place.
I welded this shingle elevator to lift boards and stuff up on the roof. So far, it's lifted about 17,000 lbs of lumber, foam, shingles, plywood, tar paper, nails and screws, 24 feet at a time. I hook up a 7:1 pulley I originally made for lifting logs, and 200 feet of 5/8" poly rope. I load the elevator with supplies, I tie the rope to the car, and back up. Then climb the ladder and unload the stuff onto the roof.
Shingling the roof of the cabin. 109 bundles of shingles. Roof dimensions: 57 feet long, 28' wide x 2. That includes 17 feet of overhang - 9' on the front, 8' on the rear (the front faces South into the prevailing winds). There is also 4 feet of overhang on the eaves.
Update on Cabin build- Done insulating the East side. Had some tar paper get torn up with the wind over the weekend, but no biggie. Discussing the ventilation holes and cap ventilation. Also will change from "built up roof" / "stepped roof" to just a thick roof with one layer. I won't insulate the overhangs, but the roof will look better from the ground. It'll also make it easier to install drip edge. Cost a little bit more, but that won't matter in the long run.
I discovered that my state says the roof must be insulated to R30 (I thought it was R40). This info changes my plans- I no longer need to shave these panels flat because I no longer have to get 9" of foam in place- I only need 7 or 8 inches- this gives me more vertical space between the foam and the plywood. It also means the thickness/height of the foam can vary more, so I don't need to worry about the foam being perfectly flat.
But I also need to fit a 48" wide panel in a 46.5" space (sleepers/ribs must be 48" on center to allow the plywood to attach). So I turned my foam cutter sideways.
Answers the problem not being able to measure how far to cut the roof decking while up on the roof. This would be easier with a man-lift, but with just one person and no man-lift, it becomes dangerous to try to lean out over the edge and measure how far the rafter is from the edge. Roof decking is now trimmed.
A demonstration of the foam cutter I made from Nichrome wire, part of my scaffolding, and a variable power controller. I have to cut 1400 cu ft of foam into uniform thicknesses to install on my roof as insulation. The decking on the roof is complete, the underlayment is in place. I have enough 2x10's to box in this foam. Just need this foam insulation, covered over by plywood / OSB, tar paper, and then shingles, and the roof will be complete!
Note: I'm just a regular guy building a log home from scratch. I have no professional construction experience. I'm just good at following directions.
How I ended up getting the decking up on the roof. Wasn't easy, but this is how I did it. Blog: https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/
- I wanted to do 20 or 30 boards at a time, but this proved unfeasible. Each board weighs about 30-40 lbs, so 20 or 30 would weigh 600 - 1200 lbs. I didn't feel like the existing decking could take that much weigh dragging over it- would definitely tear up the edge.
- I thought about building a small crane, but this would've taken days to do.
- Also, with the above ideas- the roof can only handle so much weight concentrated in one spot- it's engineered to withstand about 180 lbs/sq ft. With the boards being 16' long, I can only get 2 stacks of them on the 58' roof and still have room to put more up (16' on one edge, 16' on the other, 16' space in the middle to bring more up = 48'.
- Along with this, I stacked them directly over where the rafters meet the walls for maximum capacity. This way, I was able to get about 60 boards ready to install at at time.
After installing the Ridge Pole, we had the crane operator release the pressure on it, and it immediately "rolled" a bit. This video shows how we rolled it back to center. Then I installed more rebar pins in it, and it is holding up very well. Blog: https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/
installing rafters on my cabin using a crane and the correct spreader bar - 20 feet. Much easier than with a narrow spreader bar. Blog: https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/
installing quick release pins on the straps from the crane for lifting rafters- saves having to climb up 30 feet to release the straps. The pins can easily be pulled out from the ground via a long string. Blog: https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/
Created 1 year, 7 months ago.
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