mudflap

channel image

mudflap

mudflap

subscribers

I couldn't see lifting these vertically by myself, so I bolted the header across two posts and then lifted both at the same time with block and tackle.

I couldn't see lifting these 10' 6x6 posts by myself, so I hooked up my block and tackle to do it.

This is a start to finish cabin build video for an LHBA log home my wife and I built between 2016 - 2023.

0:00 - Introduction
0:11 - Cutting Trees
1:39 - Making Plans
1:56 - Pier Foundation
2:50 - Stacking Logs
3:50 - Cap Logs, RPSL's, Making Rafters
4:35 - Installing Ridge Pole & Rafters
5:55 - Girder log, Leveling Rafters
6:20 - Roof
7:32 - Subfloor
8:17 - Windows & Doors
9:51 - Second Floor
10:58 - Insulation & Chinking
11:50 - Framing
12:40 - Wood Stove
14:05 - Stairs
16:01 - Electrical
17:02 - Plumbing
18:35 - Drywall
19:07 - Finish Work

Got this 4 days ago to play for church, tough song to get right for me.

The ice came down on January 14-15 2024, and shut down the whole area for a few days. Roads aren't made for ice here. Temps dropped into single digits, with a low of 1 degree.

It's not snow - it's ice.

Gave us a chance to test the cabin's insulative value - it could use some improvement. I think I pulled out some insulation while installing the HVAC vents and forgot to put it back in, so we had some frozen water pipes - kitchen faucet only. It's the only place where I had to run the lines under the house instead of within the framing of the walls - there was no insulation around them and they froze. I have remedied that issue and the pipes are fine.

The bathtub p-trap is the only p-trap that is exposed in the crawlspace. I didn't think I could insulate it and it's now frozen. It'll thaw by the weekend as we are expecting warmer (high 40's) temps by then.

Other than that, we did fine.

I bought a huge load of wood the day before the storm was supposed to hit. I think we have enough wood to last us clear through Spring now. Hate buying it, but I don't have enough seasoned stuff at the moment. The heat pump even turned off for a while because the wood stove is doing such a great job. Sure, it's chugging through wood, but better than working the heat pump to death.

The ice came down on January 14-15 2024, and shut down the whole area for a few days. Roads aren't made for ice here. Temps dropped into single digits, with a low of 1 degree.

It's not snow - it's ice.

Gave us a chance to test the cabin's insulative value - it could use some improvement. I think I pulled out some insulation while installing the HVAC vents and forgot to put it back in, so we had some frozen water pipes - kitchen faucet only. It's the only place where I had to run the lines under the house instead of within the framing of the walls - there was no insulation around them and they froze. I have remedied that issue and the pipes are fine.

The bathtub p-trap is the only p-trap that is exposed in the crawlspace. I didn't think I could insulate it and it's now frozen. It'll thaw by the weekend as we are expecting warmer (high 40's) temps by then.

Other than that, we did fine.

I bought a huge load of wood the day before the storm was supposed to hit. I think we have enough wood to last us clear through Spring now. Hate buying it, but I don't have enough seasoned stuff at the moment. The heat pump even turned off for a while because the wood stove is doing such a great job. Sure, it's chugging through wood, but better than working the heat pump to death.

The "current state of things" video.

We've nearly checked off everything the inspector gave us to do before we can move in. The only things left are balusters on the decks, fire alarms (already wired, just have to connect the units), a door to block off the unfinished master bathroom. Those 3 things will probably take me just a couple hours. But we decided to go ahead with the bedroom flooring so it can ventilate before we move in. The rest of the hardwood flooring will have to wait. "Lots of after we move in projects" to go around.

I'm calling him this week, hoping to move in this weekend, wish us luck!

We really like the idea of centering the handrails on the upright posts. But a search of the web shows everyone using brackets and screws. Is it possible to just use joints? The problem is installing the handrails after installing the posts - you can't just slide a handrail that is wider than the space between the posts into place. Or can you?

Got the front stairs figured out. I wanted to box them in like I did the inside stairs - and not cut the side stringers. But we also wanted them very wide - 8', if we could (79" is where I ended up). With the boxed in look, we'll be able to install rebar right into the stringer for the balusters.

We're getting close. Hoping to move in about 2 months. Working on 1 bathroom, painting, plumbing, some electrical, and lots of clean up in preparation for an inspection. This is a 100% DIY cabin design and build - foundation to roof; no background in construction; built mostly with hand-tools (block and tackle); debt-free building.

The balcony and stair railing is installed. Posts are oak 4x4's (balcony) and 5x5's (stairs). Rebar is 1/2" (no. 4), and the top and bottom rails are pine. I milled the oak I was going to use for the railings too short. maybe I'll switch out the pine for oak down the road. Blog post here: https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/2023/02/27/stair-and-balcony-railing/

Joy by Apollo 100 (1971), based on J.S. Bach's Jesu, Joy of Man's Desiring. Played on a Yamaha piano and an 1890 pump organ by my wife and me.

Got the stair railing installed (hard) - still need to do the balcony railing (easy). Not screwed to the posts yet; still deciding how to attach. Made from 1/2" rebar painted flat black and 2x4's for now. I might change the rails over to oak if I can get enough milled and drying, but we want to move in sooner rather than later.

Got the main drain run in the trench all the way to the road. ~ 180 feet. Now just need to fill in some low spots with sand and call the city to connect it.

You have to test your DWV system for leaks before it will pass inspection, or sometimes the inspector wants to see it tested. Either way, there are two ways to test - a pressure test with air (less messy, more expensive test equipment) or just silicone little caps on all the drain openings or place rubber plugs in them, then fill the whole system with a garden hose (usually through the vent on the roof). While building my system, I put a little T-connector with a removable plug right before the system exits the house to the roof just for this test so I didn't have to climb on the roof to test it. Then you plug the end, and fill it with water and check for leaks. Probably over a hundred gallons for mine.

I milled some red oak into 5"x5" (newel) posts and 4"x4" (guard rail) posts, and am test fitting them in place. I cut down through the floor - these posts will be bolted to the 4x12 joists and the side of the stair stringers to make them extra secure.

Our blue Heeler knows chickens taste good, but he also knows he's not allowed to chase them. Here he is backing down from a challenge (he knows better).

This is the last time I'm sanding these logs. They've been peeled, powerwashed, sanded, buffed, and now I'm sanding them one more time. If we could've built faster, I would've peeled them, then poly'd them. But it took over a year to stack them, and they got a little weathered in between.

This RPSL is one of 3 that support the 70,000 lb roof. It's about 20" diameter, and about 27' tall. It is secured to the log wall with eith 1/2" all-thread pieces about 36" long - one piece of all thread, every other log. In this video, I show how to countersink the nuts and washers without removing the all-thread.

My dog killing a rope to the tune of Lego Ninjago theme song

Giving my wiring a try. It's 22' to the ceiling, and I don't want to climb back up there anymore. :)

Walking up the stairs I finished. blog: https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/2022/02/12/stairs-part-iii-putting-it-all-together/
- Oak treads from a "curb find" tree
- 3"x16"x16' live edge Oak Stringers from a tree I slabbed

Once the strips have been planed, they can be glued and clamped and set aside to dry.

Once the glue is dry, the whole tread can be planed flat. I only got one pass in this video, but in reality it takes about 10 - 15 passes to get it perfectly flat. Planer only removes 1/128" at a time.

SHOW MORE

Created 5 years, 12 months ago.

112 videos

Category DIY & Gardening

Subscribe if I tickle your fancy. It's more than a mortgage-free log home. It's declaring freedom and independence.

Video types you may see:
How to videos:
-Building a Log Cabin with block and tackle
-working with logs
-using a sawmill
-Using LHBA Butt & Pass method
-chainsaws
-felling trees
-peeling logs
-tractor

Other videos:
--Ukulele, Piano, song arrangements
-knitting videos

-Miscellaneous videos
--interesting natural things

Blog:
https://loghomejourney.wordpress.com/

LHBA:
https://www.lhba.com/